The Great Great Lakes - Conclusion

We headed out around 8 with a small craft advisor in effect for late morning.  Winds from the NW but shifting to a 20+ NE blow this afternoon.  We have a huge fetch to the NE so we hoped to be in the Keweenaw waterway by noon. 

 

Into the wind we came around Point Abbaye and across Keweenaw Bay.  We flew the Genoa with heavy winds off the port Beam right into the Keweenaw Waterway (at 11:45AM). The winds inside were twirling around with intensity, so we dropped the sail and proceeded up the waterway to where it all started in at the Houghton County Marina.

 

By a stroke of luck Superior was quite good to us. We did not use one weather day. This was unheard of until Superior. Superior is no doubt my favorite Great Lake.  We saved the best for last.

 

The journey has ended as has this blog.  But to every ending there is a new beginning.  Mark Twain said, "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from your safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover".  The gravity of home takes an abundance of fuel to escape.  But the awards abound.

 

We will continue to sail because our love of sailing has grown much deeper. Our confidence and ease at the helm has grown.  The next journey will be off the beaten path. It will have a clear vision as circumnavigating the Great Lakes has.  The vision creates the journey.  The journey is what I enjoy!

 

Thanks to Shirley for all her wonderful support.  Thanks to all the crew that I so much enjoyed sharing this journey.  Thanks to all those wonderful locals (that I also so much enjoy) along our journey that helped us out.  Thanks to God for creating such wonderful places and providing and giving us such a wonderful opportunity to enjoy them. My greatest hope with this blog is that it has given some inspiration for each of you to enjoy a journey of your own.  Until the start of our next Journey…Paul..

 

 

Travel with Albion 8/17

A relaxed 25 NM Day today as we wind down.  Very warm last night and today, the first weather on Superior that I would call hot.  Wonder what it is like up North?

 

Another one of those gorgeous mornings on the Great Great Lakes.  We replaced a batten and departed Big Bay harbor with sunshine to our backs.  Small ripples and cliffs on the Port side.  Around Salmon Trout point and NW past numerous named rocky points.  The Huron Mountains off our port, the Huron Island National Wildlife refuge off the starboard.  Granite rocks and the rugged shores.

 

The winds became more intense as we came in but not much wave effect since we were well protected by Abbaye Peninsula…

 

Early this morning we got our first glimpse of Keweehaw Peninsula in the distant horizon.  This is our final destination and will be where we conclude our journey.

 

It's amazing how pervasive wireless internets are. Here we sit at old wooden dock in a cove containing a campground. No water, no showers, nearest restaurant is 10 miles, no cell phone service, but found a near by house that has wireless.  

 

Huron Bay - Day 34

8/18/08

The Great Great Lakes - 8/17/2008

Breakfast at the Latitude and a late departure (around 10AM).  A local told us this morning that Marquette is much busier in the winter then the summer. A few places are only open in the winter. The hotels are booked.  It turns out Marquette is midway on the Cross the UP snowmobile trail.  Winter sports are huge up here.

 

Soon after departure we had some confusion.  Our GPS Route had us heading towards rocks and made no sense at all according to the paper charts and our surroundings  I went below, checked the route on the lap top and reloaded it.  Still not right.  Finally I determined an option I changed late yesterday caused a strange bug in the GPS. I turned that option off, and all was well.  A GPS is wonderful, and makes things so much more relaxing.  But I am convinced that depending only on a GPS chart plotter can be dangerous. 

 

Our heading was NW and the winds were the prevailing Superior NW winds.  So we flew both sails and literally beat into the weather tacking all day.  So goes it, but it sure can't beat a run!!  But how else could a run be so enjoyable.

 

We arrived at Huron Bay around 5.  A sleepy little harbor with only a few boats and no one in sight.  It took near an hour to locate the harbor master and get some fuel.  Dinner at the lumberjacks a mile or so up the road in Harbor Bay…Everyone in there looked like lumberjacks.  The UP is much more back country then I would have expected.  Still rather rough and wild up here.

 

One more harbor, two travel days till the Great Lakes venture is complete.  It is not about the goal or the accomplishment. It is the journey! The goal creates the journey, the path that is not beaten, and the places we would never otherwise explored.  It is all about the journey.  And the journey is quickly winding down.   Yes, there will be new journeys, but I feel quite sad to have this one coming to a close. It has been absolutely wonderful.  These are indeed Great Great Lakes, all of them, every mile and engrained in our being is a feel and love for these lakes.  Not sure how we top this one!  But we will for sure. So goes it! The way the wind blows. 

 

Bay Harbor, UP..

August 16, 2008

Travel with Albion 8/15

We had one of those good coffees from the coffee house/bookstore this morning!  Enjoyed Munising.

 

We had a bit of a send off from the dock.  The locals seem quite interested and impressed that Little Albion has made it around the Big Lake. Something they have not completely done.  We have been talking the last few nights to a very nice older couple on a large power yacht.  They come running out this morning as we left to wish us well.  I think there remains a little envy in the big boater's hearts for the simplicity of Albion. 

 

We left Munising out the West channel. Quite scenic as we headed out around Powel Point, past the thumb of Grand Island, the southern shore of Grand Island.  Dave and Ellen aboard Cordelia were anchored in the distant cove. We gave them a couple toots on the horn.  Past William Island, Au train point. Beautiful dream homes on the shores, looks like a storybook.  People up here really seem to enjoy the winters.  Cross country skiing, dog sledding.  There is a big 250 mile dog sled race up here every year.  We have been told the Ice on Superior shores piles up 25 feet in cool formations. 

 

We moved out into the open Superior waters and motor sailed with both sails flying.  We were into the weather and had to do one big tack to get a good weather heading into Marquette.  It was one of those days where you need to move around with at least three points secured. You time your next move to the next wave.  There is a rhythm to sailing and your best to go with it rather then fight it.  I remember 5 years ago on Erie trying to get Albion to a dock in a 30 knot wind.  After a dockhand rescued us I asked a large sail boater how do you get your boat to the dock in these winds?  He very calmly said, you don't fight the wind, you use the wind.  Yep, we get that now. 

 

The moon is full and rising over Superior tonight.  Nice, but there is something about those Huron moons that I have never seen since.  

 

Marquette – A BIG town for us, population 20,000. Not the Marquette that has the University!

8/15/2008

Travel with Albion 8/14

We are back to civilization and had a nice breakfast this morning at the Sportsmen before  heading out around 9.  A bouncy night at our Seawall last night. The weather picked up with winds and waves from the NE and we were rather unprotected in that direction.  It wakes you up but then after a while you get used to it and sleep better then ever.

 

We had one of those wonderful sailing days today. Heading SW Wing to Wing with a NE blow and following waves 2'3 feet.  The motor off and tilted up most of the day as we skipped along at 5.5-6.0 knots.

 

Clear blue skies, the Sable light house forward, huge (900 feet) Golden Sand dunes off the port side, sails flying.  Mornings don't come much better. 

 

I have so much enjoyed the variety of Superior.  Days and days of nothing but rocky sea shores, trees, sand dunes, Islands, rushing rivers, crystal clear waters, cold cold cold, warm sunshine, Rain, wind, heavy seas, totally calm, loons, ducks, birds, small towns, great crew, fishermen, fellow boaters.  All of this leaves you completely one with the present. 

 

The Boaters up here are more adventurous then the other Great Lakes.  Perhaps Superior requires it.   They travel more and we strike up more conversations with fellow boaters.  There is a neutralizing effect at a North Shore marina. We are all here for the same reasons; there are no walls or barriers.  Laughing comes so easy that you can't help but notice.

 

We passed picture rocks on the port side. These are rocky cliffs on shore that are colorful from the mineral content.  A number of touring boats out of Munising were out.

 

We arrived in Munising early, 3:30….Back to taking that evening shower, dinner in town, and walking around  town.  Northern Harbor towns always seem to have a certain quaintness and rhythm.  Four days away from completing the Great Lakes…

 

The moon is bright and getting fuller!

 

Munising

8/14/2008

Travel with Albion 8/13

We departed White Fish Point around 7, a long day today, 47 NM.  We rounded the point and headed west along the southern Shore. We motored sailed all day with light winds out of the north.  The Southern shore was rather remote and has a number of large sand dunes.  I imagine this shore gets quite the beating from the prevailing NW winds.  There are over 550 ship wrecks off White Fish point. A dangerous place with a Superior blow, but calm and peaceful for us this day.  A relaxing day, good day to read a book while underway.

 

We went to dinner tonight with a fellow boating couple.   They have been at the same harbors as us the last 3 nights. They are familiar with Grand Marias and we all had some good local fish.  There planning a trip South next year…

 

Clear sky, moon getting fuller, seas very mild. 

 

Grand Marias

8/13/2008

Travel with Albion 8/12

 We departed around 9 with 5-10 knot winds out of the NW.  A fresh oil change for Albion, Bill is now on board, and we have fresh provisions for our final leg of the Great lakes adventure.  Soon after departure our motor died in the middle of the channel.  I quickly discovered it was merely the fuel line was not snug in the connection (removed for the oil change).  So we were off again.  We locked back up 21 feet to Superior and back out the St Mary's river. The monster ships and the locks felt rather routine today.  Our heading was NW and the winds were NW but they eased and we motored across Whitefish bay to White Fish point.  This is a safe refuge, a man made harbor with no facilities.  We have quite the view from here of the Superior waters and the distant Canadian hilly shores.  The moon is nearing full and reflecting on the waters, Venus is bright, larger ships are passing on the way to the Soo, and the air is so warm for a change.  As many places up here, this is a special place. There are three other sailboats with us tonight.  Next to us is a family, Husband, Wife and two boys (maybe 9 and 10) on a Beneteau 38.   They have been traveling around Superior this summer and have quite the stories to tell. 

 

Whitefish Point.

8/12/2008

Travel with Albion - A message from Mark - 8/11

Crewman Mark's supplement to Captain Paul's blog - Monday, Aug. 11

 

As we wait for Paul's next crew member Bill to arrive here in Sault Ste.Marie, MI for the last leg of Paul's Great Lakes circumnavigation, the weather is beautiful; much like it was for almost the entire length of my part of the voyage.  I just came out of a tour of a maritime museum (right next to the marina, inside the "small" 550' mothballed freighter Valley Camp) where among many other interesting displays, they have exhibits of the Edmund Fitzgerald, including the remains of the ship's two lifeboats.  A very sobering reminder of what Superior is capable of when she acts up.  The battered lifeboats washed up on shore near where we anchored out two nights ago. 

 

Lake Superior from Thunder Bay to Whitefish Bay was amazingly remote, postcard picturesque, and a wonderful experience.  I thank Paul for the opportunity to be a small part of his great adventure.  I think I'm Paul's "Canadian specialist", having sailed over 90% of my time with him in Canadian waters.  Having sailed with Paul on every lake except Lake Michigan, I would definitely rate Superior as my favorite.   As you might guess, Paul is already thinking hard about what he and Albion might do next.  Based on his musings, could it be sailing to Mexico, perhaps?

 

Paul's daily blog has described the places we've been and the overall sailing experience very well, so I'll not repeat that. I suppose I'll reminisce about some of the memories and highlights of this trip in my guest blog today. 

 

Three biggest surprises:

 

1. Seeing a fishing vessel materialize out of the fog 400 feet ahead of us offshore from Otter Bay, coming at us about 200 feet off port, when I'd bet there wasn't another vessel within 20 miles of us.  Since he had radar, I'm sure he knew where we were, but his abrupt appearance sure surprised me!

 

2. Walking up on 150# to 200#  black bear while hiking to the first nation mission in Goulais Bay.  He took off running when he saw me.

 

3. The near heart attack caused when I set the chart book on top of the air horn in the cabin.  Very loud.

 

Three biggest disappointments (minor ones, more than mitigated by the items in my "cool experiences":

 

1. Trolling various lures behind Albion for more than 200 miles without one lake trout, steelhead, or salmon to show for it.

2. Not seeing a moose

3. There is no number three, unless you count the mosquitoes

 

Coolest Experiences

1. Making good on my assertion before the trip that I could catch us a fish dinner, and then having the best $42 pike dinner of my life (the cost of a non-resident fishing license) on board Albion

2. Very close encounters with wildlife, including caribou and snowshoe hares in the Slate Islands, whitetail deer at Silver Islet, and of course my bear (see surprise #2)

3. Going to sleep to the tom-toms and chants from a First Nation family reunion campfire about 10 yds. from Albion

4. Everything about White River, with its falls, its suspension bridge and its pristine beauty (only place I swam)

5. Locking through the Soo Locks

6. Great weather, and even better company.

 

 

I wish Paul and Bill continued fair weather, and following seas as they sail on.

 

Travel with Albion 8/10

We didn't have a problem with the bears last night, but Mark did see one 50 feet ahead on a near by trail.  We were about to cook up some pasta when finally our fish dinners came at 8:20 PM.  A group (maybe 25) of First Nations People (But they seem quite comfortable calling themselves Indians) came down to the dock last night. They built a large fire on shore, beat on drums, and did some sort of chanting (is that what you call it?).  It was interesting. 

 

We departed late, around 11AM.  There was a strong wind warning advisory in effect and we needed to check out the weather.  20 Knots out of the NW with waves a meter.  But we would quickly round Gros point and have some protection entering the St. Mary's river. So we talked to local fishermen and opted to head out.

 

We flew a full Genoa on a run around the bend into the St Mary's.  There were following four foot waves, but not a problem.  The ridge on the Canadian side is covered with over a hundred wind mills to catch those Superior winds. We entered the narrows of the St Mary's river as about the same time as a huge ship.  It passed without any problem, but those monsters are a bit intimidating after being with no one for weeks. Little Albion is like a speck in comparison.   Some of the ships up here are over a 1000 feet long.

 

Locking down through the Canadian locks was rather simple with only a 15 minute wait.  We had an audience watching.   Homeland security has a strong presence here.  These locks must be important.  But our immigration was the simplest ever.  I think they have a new strategy and it may work.  Be very friendly and joke around with the people, and maybe they will relax, mess up and tell things.  We called after arrival and  they were down here in 15 minutes for a pleasant relaxed talk about the Steelers, vacation spots etc. 

 

Monday is a crew change day. Mark is departing and Bill arrives as we begin the final leg of our Great Lakes adventure. 

 

Sault Ste. Marie

8/10/2008

Travel with Albion - 8/9

We departed Maimaisene Island at sunrise (6:30AM) to beat the weather into Whitefish bay.  Rain overnight, waves 2 feet, heavy dark clouds, and a 10-15 knot blow out of the North.  Not so bad, our heading today is SE.  The weather is picking up and we are entering Whitefish bay today.    The Edmund Fitzgerald lies near the entrance to WF bay and this area is known for huge waves .  The prevailing winds on Superior are out of the NW and Whitefish bay is in the SE corner.  So with 100's of miles of fetch this little bay at times takes the full force of Superior.  Waves are predicted to be less then a meter but building to 2 meters early this evening. So we are literally on a run for cover. 

 

We sailed most of the day on a run flying the full Genoa with the whisker pole. Albion sails well on a run with a full Genoa.   We arrived early (12:30) into WF bay and are tucked away at a fishing dock in Goulais Bay.  Soon after we arrived this young boy came down and told us, "This place is really dangerous"?  How so we asked?  He said there are bears around here that come down to the dock and get on the boats looking for food.  So we have our air horn ready to blast away the bears tonight.

 

We are once again docked on the shores of a First Nation Reservation.   We hiked a few miles down the road and stopped at a First nation general store for some ice cream.  We hiked another half mile to a stand that sells fresh fish meals to eat outside.  We asked if they would deliver dinner to our dock tonight and were quite surprised that they will not only deliver, but offered us a ride back.  The First Nation gentlemen that rode us back is  the fishermen that goes out each morning to catch the fish in his small boat.  He uses Gill nets that go down near 100 feet and provides the restaurant (run by his parents) with all the fish.  Whitefish bay does in fact have lots of white fish…

 

Tomorrow we make our way to Sault Ste. Marie where Mark ends his segment and Bill joins up.  Checking back into the US is not an easy task.  We need to go through the locks and stay at the Marina on the US side.  Bill and I will then need to lock back up to Superior to continue the last segment of our journey. 

 

Are you wondering how we are sending these logs?  Last night our Wi-Fi tester located a signal near an old fishing house near the dock and we borrowed it a few minutes.  Today we have located a small school near by which appears to have Wi-Fi, so if you're getting this, that's it.

 

Goulais Bay

August 9, 2008

 

Travel with Albion 8/8

We departed Gargantua harbor at 8:45 with clear blue skies, sunshine, and calm seas.  Pulling up the anchor was quite simple, sandy bottom, 5 feet of water, 35 feet of rode. 

 

There are a number of Rocky Shoals and Islands along this coast.   So we made our way around and past shoals, points, capes and pine covered Islands.  Now who can tell us the difference in a cape and a point?  It is hard to imagine a shore that could be more scenic.  The fresh clear Superior waters.  No development or marks made by man. None anyplace.  Waves splashing on rocky shores sparkling from the sunlight.  Dark green pines contrasted by the deep blue sky.  A breeze full of brisk cool air, yet warm sunshine.  Fresh air filled with birds flying about.  The rippling of small waves rocking Albion in a soothing way as we travel through this wonderland.  Admission is free, it is the getting here that is the challenge.  No other tourists, no boats, only the sun shining on the water. This is the peak of the season and who can imagine a finer place to be on an August summer day?

 

Remoteness comes with the lack of roads.  Mid morning the highway once again joined up with the coast line after a departure of near 130 miles of shore.  So we slowly began to see signs of civilization again. Cell towers on peaks, trucks in the distance traveling on highway 17. But there are no marina facilities until we get to soo in a few more days. 

 

We are tucked in behind Maimaisne Island tonight and are sharing an old dock with 4 old Indian net fishing boats. . There is a fish processing place here that ships the catch to market.  We have a keen eye on the weather tonight. Tomorrow we enter White Fish Bay and the weather is picking up. 

 

Maimaisene Island

8/8/2008

 

Travel with Albion 8/7

We departed Bucks Marina and out the Michipicoten River around 10.  The seas were calm and the opening at the mouth was quite calm compared to yesterday.  Today's weather was warm, t-shirts.  The water temperatures have warmed up considerably since June, in the 50's now. 

 

Around 2 the winds and weather picked up and we were on a run with Genoa out.  Too much trouble bringing out the main for just an hour or so.  We arrived in Gargantua Harbor around 3:30 and have a good anchor hold in the sand.  There is a long sandy beach here.   An old road from the highway comes down, so there are a few locals on shore swimming and camping out on the beach.  In the early 1900's this was port was a sizable fishing station, but today there is not much left except the remnants of an old building and a sunken 130 Foot tug that sunk in 1910. We use Bonnie Dahl's book,  "Superior Way" ,to find good anchorages and learn about the ports on Superior. An excellent resource, with an amazing amount of details on everything. .  She has sailed up here for 30 years and every place we go the locals tell us Bonnie was here last whatever…

 

We dinged to shore, explored an old building, and went on a short hike up to the top of a knoll overlooking Superior….

 

Gargantua Harbor

8/7/2008

Travel with Albion 8/6

We departed Pilot Harbor early, 7:30 AM.  Today is a big day for us; we arrive at the town of Wawa and have quite a list of shore duties.  We are looking forward to a nice warm shower; last showers were a week ago before we departed Thunder Bay.  Traveling along this shore keeps us amazingly busy. I find writing this log takes more effort and is at times a bit of a push.  So I hope your all enjoying it?

 

Entering  the mouth of the Michipicoten River was a bit tense.  The mouth faces west and the winds and waves were out of the west.   With the waves pushing us in and the river currents pushes us out there was at times little rudder control.  The entrance was filled with sandbars and the route was far from obvious.  But with the charts and Mark on the bow we negotiated our way in without incident.  We are at Bucks Marina a few miles up the river. No other sailboats in this harbor, the entrance is just too difficult.   So once again, there are advantages to a small little boat like Albion. 

 

The Showers were wonderful and we were even able to do a load of laundry. ..The town of Wawa (which means "Wild Goose" in Ojibwa) is 4 miles from the Marina.  There is a woman in town (Louise) that runs a taxi service.  However Louise seems to have disappeared.  But, the locals are quite helpful and accommodating.  A guy who works at the marina took us to town and gave us a short tour including the three large (near 20 feet) Geese statues.  We loaded up on groceries and had a nice dinner in town.  While finishing dinner we decided to make a sign saying "Marina" on the back of our place mat to hitch hike back to the Marina.  But, lucky us the very nice family next to us overheard our conversation and gave us a ride back.  He is the owner of a wilderness helicopter company and has a boat at the marina.  When we inquired about wireless internet a local at the marina told us the best place to go would be his rear deck.  So thanks to him for this service as I sit on his deck!!

 

We head out to Sault Ste. Marie today (Thursday).  We are going to amble our way down and take 3 days to get there. So the next log will not be until at least Sunday, unless, well you should know by now, the weather picks up…

 

Some guys Deck

Near Wawa, Ontario..

Travel with Albion 8/5

We departed Otter Cove late, around 11.  The rudder gudgeon (where it attaches to the transom) was loose and needed to be tightened, doable but not an easy chore.  Plus the fish were biting this morning and Mark caught us a 27 inch Northern Pike for dinner tonight.  Wow, was he a fighter!

 

As we went out the channel this morning around the corner were  a couple other sailboats anchored out on the Southern shore. They must have come in during the night and the crew looked to be still sleeping.  

 

Light winds and calm seas as we headed South and then East around the shore corner.  Today was our 4^th day of travel along this rugged shore.  We have plenty of Fuel and food and could continue on another week without difficulty.  We have been towing our sevlar kayak and it seems to ride well following us, even yesterday in the 2-3 foot seas. 

 

The fog moved in early afternoon and an old fishing boat came out of the fog on a collision course with us, we passed both being rather surprised.  The winds and waves picked up, the fog blew away, and  the last few hours and we had a nice run with the whisker pole on the Full Genoa into Pilot Harbor at 6-7 knots.  Another pristine little cove where we anchored out and enjoyed the fresh Northern Pike for dinner. 

Travel with Albion 8/4

A small early morning thunder storm passing in the distance delayed our departure.  The winds picked up a bit over night but the warm air from the southern blow felt quite pleasant.  As we pulled up our anchor line we discovered at about 50 feet to the anchor the line was stuck around something on the bottom.  We both pulled and yanked nothing!   We then circled Albion around pulling from different angles to no avail.   So I decided to dive down to see if I could free up whatever the rode was attached to. We have an extra anchor on board, but didn't want to leave one behind.  The depth was 15 feet so I didn't have much time to work below. The line was tangled in the limbs of a large tree.   After a number of dives we succeeded in setting up a trip line on the anchor side of the line and pulled it free.

 

We made our way the two miles out around the shoals to the mouth of the White River.   The entrance to the White at Superior had considerable boiling do to the Southern waves rolling into the narrow river mouth.  With some  bouncing and tossing around we make it out of the mouth and into Superior.  The weather had picked up over night and we had waves 2-3 feet and winds out of the South. Not the desirable sea conditions since we were heading south. So we tacked our way south with a furled fore sail and full main, back and forth towards Otter Cove. Albion seems to ride the waves better into the weather with a furled Genoa.  A full jib seems to push the bow into the waves more.  The Eastern shore here is all rocky mountain cliffs, part of the Pukaskwa National Park. I often wondered when looking at road maps why the Canadian highway that circles Superior makes a big turn and is 50 miles from shore here. I think the answer is the Rocky impossible terrain.

 

Later in the afternoon our heading changed to SE and the winds and waves eased.  But we were able to keep the sails up all the way into Otter Cove.  We are tucked away a mile or so off the lake in an all weather protected anchorage in Otter Cove.  This Cove is ours tonight and it is gorgeous.  We our so grateful to have the opportunity to be such a place. We are alone of course but Venus is shining very bright over us, she never seems to shine so bright except at places like this.  

 

Otter Cove

8/4/2008

Travel with Albion 8/3

Superior is all that I expected , plus more. I love it up here!!  We departed McColl Island around 8 and made our way out through the maize of pine covered Islands and rocky shoals.  The waters like a mirror reflecting tall pines and the white puffy clouds.  The waters clear yet somehow dark.  We moved out into the open sea for our 30 mile crossing over to the mouth of the White River.  This point puts us on the Western shore of Superior, well on our way around. Our heading was 105* right into the warm morning sunshine. The Shores of Superior are by far my favorite place on the Great Lakes. Breath taking. Each port seems to be an all time favorite only to be matched or topped by the next harbor.

 

The crossing was relaxed and quite enjoyable.  The only hazard were a number of floating logs that for some reason were floating vertical with 2-4 feet straight up from the surface They certainly were not lodged in the bottom since the depths were around 500 feet. A unique sight as they did not seem to be moving at all.  The seas were so calm today we brewed up some Lake Superior coffee.

 

The entrance to the white river is very hidden.  All we could see was sheer cliffs and a rocky shore, it felt like we were going to go into the rocks.  I have never seen the mouth of a river on the Great Lakes like this. But we followed the GPS and charts and around the corner out between the large rocks flowed the White River.  We negotiated our way up river 2 miles, this was not an easy route. There were shoals, Islands, and rapids as we snaked and rounded our way up.  We made it up to a pool at the base of a large falls and found a good place to get an anchor hold.  We are alone at this anchorage in a small cover around the corner from the roaring falls.

 

Our maps indicated the Cross Canadian trail was a half mile or so East of our anchorage and crossed the trail crossed the river gorge with a suspension bridge.  So be blew up the dingy, headed for shore and bushwhacked our way up the cliffs in search of the trail. We knew if we kept the sun to our backs we had to intersect it.  We in fact found the trail and hiked to the bridge. What a gorge and bridge. The narrow swinging bridge must be 80 feet above the gorge and at least 100 feet long. The volume of flow down the white through this gorge is  amazing.  The gorge is very long, at least a half mile and there are 2 additional falls upstream.  A good river for a canoe trip. 

 

We made it back to Alboin and after our hiking excursion were quite sweaty and dirty.   So we took a swim in our private cove and had a nice bath. Mark caught a small Northern Pike that was nice but not enough for a complete meal, so he tossed it back.  The mosquitoes are out in full force here tonight. Nice having a cozy cabin to come down into and type today's log...

 

Superior is wonderful...

 

White River Falls

August 2008

Travel with Albion 8/2

I wanted to check the hull (it is ok) after the rock bumps so took a refreshing swim off the dock before our departure.  We departed around 10 with smooth seas, warm sunshine, pine covered Islands and then a short 10  mile crossing of the Jack Fish Channel over to the Slate Islands. The pine trees up here are skinny and straight. Mark says they might be Lodge Pole Pines, but he is guessing. 

 

We have 5 days of travel before our next opportunity for food or fuel (or internet for you to get this).  We have plenty of food but really need to watch our fuel. 14.75 Gallons of Fuel on board and  a schedule of how much we think we need to have left at the end of each travel day.  Winds will greatly assist our fuel project, but so far on this segment winds have been absent, seas calm.  The sunshine is sooo warm, the skies blue, and the days quite relaxed.  We can put in less miles each day because we have yet to be held over for weather. 

 

We arrived at the Slate Islands around 2.  Wow, what a beautiful place.  We are alone in this very pristine little harbor, surrounded by clear water, small pine Islands, rocks, loons calling, and lots of birds.  The Slate Islands are now a Canadian National Park and were thought to have been formed by an asteroid.  There is a herd or caribou on the Islands.  We are at a very low old dock on the SW corner of Mcnoll Island.  A young caribou was on shore and we saw an older one with big antlers and a white breast walking along the shore across our small bay.  After dinner of BBQ Chicken Mark started a camp fire on shore.  We were very entertained by watching the loon dive for fish, two snowshoe hairs stopped by, ducks with baby ducks, and Mark saw a beaver earlier.  We have seen some nice large trout swimming under Albion, but so far, no fish for dinner.

 

Slate Islands

8/2/2008

Travel with Albion 8/1

We departed Squaw Harbor with smooth seas and misty conditions.  A take a deep breath misty morning.  With the benefit of local knowledge we maneuvered our way out of Rocky Squaw harbor without incident. Once we were out in the large bay we were relaxed, talking, taking in the morning, cruising down the middle of the bay and we bumped another rock.  So we have to be vigilant up here, the rocks are lurking in places not expected. We traveled amongst the fog, tall cliffs, and glassy waters.  It gives one a mystical feeling early in the morning. The view is quite unique.  Above is blue sunny sky, yet somehow around you at water level is intense fog.  The mirror of the water reflects the low lying clouds and looking forward the waters, clouds, and sky  all blend together in this confusing mystical presence.  Then off in a distance through this mirror of water and mist appears a tall rocky mountain peak.  We blast our horn and make our way amongst the Islands and shoals.   The fog quickly lifted, the sky totally blue, and it was T shirt weather,  almost hot. Just when we were getting used to the sunshine the thunder roars from the  West and a storm moves in. This is traveling on Lake Superior.

 

We arrived in Rossport around 2:00 and have been quite busy tending to all those things a little civilization offers. Charge the batteries, find fresh water (our marina has none), find groceries (we had to find someone to drive us 28 miles round trip).  Rossport is a sleepy little town with a couple outfitters and a few very nice B&B's complete with restaurants.  We had a nice diner at the Serendipity  We depart Rossport tomorrow to travel an even more desolate coast. We have lots of food, will take more water from the lake, and expect at least 4-5  days minimum before civilization for food or fuel.  If the weather picks up it will be a bit longer. The slate Islands were highly recommended so we are changing plans and heading there next. Watch the spot..

 

The crazy thing is this marina has no running water, showers etc. but it has wireless internet.  I guess us boaters have our priorities and showers is not one of them. Been a while and we are trying to decide if we'll jump in the lake for our shower.  That would be rather cold...

 

Paul.

Rossport Ontario

 

Spot : http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0qKG1bEYs1iGIRBpMPLFho7b7rY4RxLp4

Blog : http://www.travelwithalbion.blogspot.com/

Spot...

http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0qKG1bEYs1iGIRBpMPLFho7b7rY4RxLp4

 

 

 

There seems to be some confusion with Spot.  A few emails coming in...Here is the latest link...Paul

 

 

 

Beautiful morning! Clear Blue sky as the sun rose over our little harbor. We are near halfway and Mother Superior remains good to us. Soon after departure the clouds moved in, the winds picked up and we sailed close hauled along the raw shore. Lots of ducks and we have added a new species (Golden Eye) to our bird book. Calm seas, spectacular scenery, rocky shores, mountains, numerous Islands and shoals to navigate around. The weather is much warmer then our first segment, no shorts yet, but pleasant! We remain off the Beaten Path and saw one cabin and a couple other boats all day. These parts are traveled by few. There were numerous reports of Sasquatch sightings in the Thunder Bay newspapers before our departure, but we have yet to see him/her. It is desolate up here and the experience can cause one to imagine things only to find your hallucinating .

Showers late afternoon. We bumped a couple rocks on the way into our safe harbor at CPR Slip, not an obvious route. The charts up here are not very accurate. We're at an old dock on the Southern Shore of St Ignace Island with a couple other local boaters and 7 or 8 Sea Kayakers. Complete with a Sauna and Outhouse.

We departed at 11 with Dark clouds and the City of Thunder Bay fading to our backs. Thunder Bay is indeed as aw inspiring on departure as when we entered. A huge body of water some 30 miles wide with towering Green mountains around the shore. Little to no winds as we motored out of the bay and passed the sleeping giant mountain on are port side. A combination of warm sunshine, distant showers, and at times present showers. We headed around Sibley Peninsula and on up the North Shore past numerous rock Islands to a small old mining community called Silver Inlet. We are at an old dock at the General store. Silver Inlet is a combination of old cabins mixed with a few newer vacation homes. No power or utilities in this community. Water is pumped from the lake, power is produced with solar cells, wind mills and personal generators. An interesting place where the local are very friendly. It was founded around the Silver mine in 1869. Mark has been fishing, other then a few small ones, no fish yet!!

Tuesday July 29th

 

We have returned to Thunder Bay and will launch tomorrow on our last segment of the Great Lakes Circumnavigation.  I can't believe we are about to finish.  This Great Lakes adventure has far exceeded our wildest expectations.  So we begin with a combination of sadness and excitement.

 

But let's not get ahead of ourselves here, were not finished yet.  This next two weeks will the most rugged and remote of any we have done.  Long distances for a small boat, with very few opportunities to get fuel or provisions.  A rocky shore, with cliffs and long distances (100+ miles) with out roads or towns.  Islands with just Caribou.  Mark has joined up. He has the right skills and personality for this next venture. He has brought his fishing gear, so we won't starve!  I am quite happy to have him along.   We have 7-9 days of food and enough fuel to travel 120 miles without sailing.  If the weather picks up we will be tucked in a rocky cove for, well, who knows how long.  And once we come out we could still have many miles and anchorages to travel to town.

 

I have no idea when the next log will be.   Best case 2 or 3 days perhaps, worse case, 2 weeks.   Watch the spot, but understand the terrain could keep the signal from getting out if we are in that rocky cove. 

 

The weather in Thunder Bay today is much warmer, in the 60's,  fog tonight... But as it goes up north, that could change quickly.   Paul…

 

 

Travel with Albion - Thoughts from the First Mate

Shirley's thoughts and reflections.  More on or around the 29th when we return to finish our Great Lakes Circumnavigation.  Paul..

 

**************

We flew out of Thunder Bay early Saturday morning.  Back home now in Pittsburgh sweating for the first time in almost 2 weeks.  We were fortunate that the timing of things for us went like clockwork.  After we crossed from Isle Royale to Thunder Bay on Thursday, the weather picked up.  There have been small craft warnings, gale warnings and wave heights of 7-10 feet!  We could still be sitting at Rock Harbor, Isle Royale, waiting for the seas to calm.  

 

The 5^th and final Great Lake.  Hard to believe.  Each trip has been unique.  On this trip I had the opportunity to be at sea more days than ever before.  The weather was generally sunny, but cool, even cold sometimes.  While Paul was planning this trip, Lake Superior seemed to be the most intimidating due to its size.  In reality, I found it intimidating because of the cold water temperatures, 39 degrees!  The hugeness of the lake becomes an advantage for wave height because it takes longer for big waves to build due to the depth of the lake.  I get more comfortable sailing with each trip but I still get nervous with rough seas and the unpredictability of things.  When Paul started on this mission to circumnavigate the lakes, I thought it was pretty crazy.  Now that he is nearing completion of his goal, I can't help but admire him for what he has accomplished and learned in the process.  Being totally honest, there is a small part of me that would enjoy doing the rest of Superior.  But then I look at those gale warnings, etc. and think again.  I will be happy to be at home reading Paul's blog.  The question is, what will Paul think of next?!?!  Here are a few fun facts from our trip:

 

0    Number of days I wore my bathing suit

      Days it rained while at sea

 

1    Days sailing in the fog

      Nights anchored out

 

2    Days without a shower

 

3    Treacherous sailing days (waves, wind)

 

4    Days I wore a stocking cap

      Nights we ate out

 

5    Days without cell phone service

      Number of minutes for a shower token at Isle Royale

 

6    Cost of  the shower token - $6

      Number of blue sky sunshine days

 

7    Number of days showers were available

 

8    Number of days I wore fleece

      Felt like 8 season changes

 

9    Number of consecutive days sailed

 

10    Rating I'll give to Captain Paul; he's the Best

 

685    Highest number I saw on our depth gauge

Travel with Albion - Thursday - July 10

We departed at 7AM for our crossing to Thunder Bay.  The air was brisk, the seas calm, and a slight breeze out of the East.  Excellent travel conditions for a crossing.  We navigated around Blake point on the NE end of the Isle Royal and set a NW heading for Thunder Bay.  When navigating one should never rely on a single source to identify your current location.  We use a combination of GPS, Line of Sight, and paper charts.  When we came out of the fog and entered Chippewa Harbor our GPS was very off and at one point had us on land.  If we would have blindly followed only the GPS we would have ended up on the rocks.  Later I talked to a fellow boater and his GPS had him on land also.  I suspect the charts the GPS uses are wrong rather then the coordinates.

 

The winds and waves picked up and we sailed with a full Genoa into the Thunder Bay harbor. On entering the harbor conditions calmed down a bit. Other then a large ship passing on our starboard we saw no other vessels making the crossing. We met many Americans on Isle Royal, most from Wisconsin or Minnesota.  We did not meet one Canadian.

 

Entering Thunder Bay is quite the unforgettable experience.  Large Island cliffs on either side, the city of Thunder Bay (Superiors Largest) can be seen in the distance, and the waters of the bay are huge.  The books say entering Thunder Bay is aw inspiring, we agree! 

 

Dinner tonight at Hoito a Finnish Restaurant.  We felt like we were in Scandinavia.  Most of the folk we met on Isle Royal had such a Scandinavia look to them.  It is interesting how they have settled up North here, guess it feels like home.

 

This concludes Segment one of our journey around Lake Superior. Albion is tucked away for a few weeks.  Boat chores tomorrow and then we fly home on Saturday.  Mark and I will be back to Thunder Bay July 29 to begin the most remote section of our journey.  The logs will really be few and far between for that segment.  The Thunder Bay harbor master told us the weather up North here starts to decline the beginning of August.  So we shall see, could be a cold one.  I am taking home the short sleeves and bringing back long ones along with a few more wool socks. 

 

Shirley has agreed to add a bit to the log, so that will be coming. Till around the 29th....Paul..

Travel with Albion - Wednesday - July 9

Mosquito's were intense last night.  We were up swatting, plugging small holes around the hatch, lighting candles, using Deet. 

 

The water taxi captain dropping off a few fishermen at our dock said, "there are 4 foot rollers out there",   but they were from the Southwest and we were heading northeast.  The prevailing winds on Superior are SW, exactly what we have experienced thus far.  As we departed Chippewa harbor the waves were in fact from the SW but the winds were gusting on our Port Beam (West).  An unusual condition, the winds were quickly shifting west and out of sync with the waves.  The captain had also said, you'll be ok but it is really twirling out there. Yep, twirling it is.  The conditions were not the best but we only had 10 miles to go and could tuck into Rock Harbor after only a few miles.

 

We sailing along with heavy seas and gusting conditions with only a furled fore sail.  The seas were big and we were quite wet from the 39* spray across the deck.  As we rounded Comglomcock point all hell broke out.  The gusts were twirling and continuously changing direction, the seas were quite confused with it all, as were we. So time to bring in the sail and head in behind Mott Island.  With some in trepidation on Shirley's part (but she is a very good sport!)  we followed the Navigation aids around the rocks and into Rock Harbor.  What a difference it was.  Soon the sun was shining and we were relaxed and warmed up at the Rock Harbor docks. 

 

Rock Harbor is the most developed part of the Island. Quite a few people here, cabins, gift shop, restaurant, and snack bar.  We had a nice dinner and attended a Ranger show!  Tomorrow we do the crossing to Thunder Bay.  It is called Thunder Bay because the winds blowing down off the mountains and across the harbor sounds like Thunder.

Travel with Albion - Tuesday - July 8

No internet at Windigo.  We departed with very cold foggy conditions.  The man from the park service loading up his boat with a few back packers said, "It may snow yet this summer".  Wool socks, gloves, multilayer top and bottom.  We picked our way with GPS in hand, blowing the fog horn.  Out Washington Harbor, around the corner to Grace Harbor, across Grace Harbor, around Cumberland Point as the mist and fog collected on the rigging and dripped like rain.  We were at times 0.3 miles off, but no shore to be seen.  I was quite toasty at the helm wearing a T-shirt, long sleeve shirt, light fleece jacket, Gortex rain suit, Paddling Jacket, and a heavy fleece jacket, gloves and a stocking cap.  Six layers around Rainbow Point, Long point, and it continued the entire day up the SE side of Isle Royal to Chippewa Harbor. The strange part that I have never experienced is we had a strong following wind and 2-3 foot waves, yet the fog remained.  It was like surfing in the fog all afternoon, on a run with a port side preventer. 

 

As soon as we turned to the Port around 4PM and entered Chippewa Harbor the skies were clear blue, the sun shone and felt it awww so warm and nice!!  Looking back at Mother Superior the fog was still out there just hovering about 20 feet deep on top of the water (caused by humid air blown in from the SW and 39* waters). 

 

Chippewa Harbor is wonderful.  We are watching Loons; a Bald Eagle just flew over.  We only saw one other boat traveling today, the ferry, with only 2 people on board.  Life is good!

Travel with Albion - Monday - July 7

We had a nice breakfast at the Indian Casino and headed out with cloudy skies and brisk stocking cap weather.  They tell us July is the best month up here and that around mid August Superior really starts to pick up.  The temperatures on the lake as we travel are constantly changing.  We go from T-shirts to multiple layers of fleece in no time. Isle Royal is 20 miles off the Minnesota shore.  The Islands have some hills so we could see them as soon as we left Grand Portage Harbor.  At times our depth gauge could not find the bottom today.  The charts said 852 feet.

 

We met a kayaker camped out this morning.  He built a beautiful wood Kayak and was paddling and portaging the voyageur route a cross Canada.  He told us those 3 foot rollers we were experiencing were 6 foot waves along the shallow shore line he was paddling.  He was about to depart and carry his 53# Kayak 9 miles up a mountain.  He planned on hiding it in the woods and then hiking 9 miles back to get his gear.  Here we sit purring along with our 6 HP Honda.

 

Isle Royal is a National Park. The Island is around 50 miles long and has a moose and wolf population.  We saw one other boat on the way over here and we are sitting at a dock at the visitor's center with one other sailboat.  This is in fact a wilderness park. But nothing much is wilderness anymore. Hot shower last night ($6 for a 5 minute token) and I met a college kid who tells me he has set up internet in his room for the summer. I am going to go try and use it this morning (Tuesday). 

 

A cold passage over to Isle Royal, we figure around 45* with the wind chill.  Shirley curled up in her sleeping bag down below and looked out the ports at things of interest. I spent a fair amount of time down below as well, popping my head out the hatch all the time.  We had a good wind and flew the Genoa on a Port tack most of the way. Nice to have the hull up against the waves..

 

Isle Royal is beautiful.  Pine Forests, very green, loons calling as you fall to sleep on a cool brisk night.  Put a visit to Isle Royal on your list, crowds will not be a problem.  Can't drive the car here though. 

Travel with Albion - Sunday - July 6

Early morning rain but the Blue Skies returned before we departed Grand Marais.  The people in town were all saying, what a morning, going up to 80* today.  80 is a big event in North Country. 

 

Rolling 3 footers on the starboard rear quarter today, but not much wind.  Seeing what a 4 knot South wind and 40 miles of fetch can do, I can't imagine a 40 knot wind and 300 miles of fetch.  South winds are warm but as we travel across the North shore, North winds are preferred.  A strong southern blow would keep us tucked away in a safe harbor a few days.  If I were to identify the most dangerous lake for a small craft at this point it would be Erie.  Erie is shallow, the waves build very fast, the period is short, and the waves are steep.  Superior is deep. The waves build slower, the period longer, and the waves more rolling.  Superior's inertia is huge, but it takes her a while to get going.  When she builds it must be spectacular to watch.  The best seats for the performance are on shore.

 

Misty foggy day in a few places today as the rocks and mountains lingering in the distance.   Rumors and folklore have it there are large creatures living in these waters.  We have not seen any yet, but I can understand now how someone could. 

 

At a small marina tonight on the Grand Portage Indian Reservation. There is a sliver of moon overlooking us. The moon is always bigger and brighter up here.  Shirley says it feels like the Wild West in North Country. Isle Royal today (Monday)…

 

Paul

Thanks to the Grand Portage Indian Reservation Lodge and Casino for the wireless. 

Travel with Albion - Saturday - July 5

A beautiful Blue Sky sunshine morning in our harbor today.  It gets cold down in the cabin in the morning with the boat sitting in the cold water.  So when we open the hatch and go out we are met with nice warm air.

 

Smooth calm seas again today.  So far on Superior we have experienced more calm weather then any other of the Great Lakes.  All this water and every day during our travels we see no other boats.  The scenery is spectacular, the air crisp and fresh, and the water clean and clear.  There is a fair amount of development along the Minnesota North Shore, cabins, huge vacation homes, townhouse complexes.  No boats at these developments, not even Kayaks.  It tells you that Superior is not normally so friendly. She has been very kind to us thus far. I guess these folk in the cabins just enjoy coming and watching her performance from shore.  There are mountains (1700 Ft) on shore to enjoy.  We passed a ski area that must be a cold one in winter. But the view would be wonderful.  Our view from a few miles off sure was.

 

The ankle biters were with us today. I guess they can fly a few miles over water on a calm day.  We arrived at Grand Marais Harbor early afternoon. A nice destination, an entry point to the boundary waters, canoes everywhere.  We had a nice dinner on shore; re stocked the provisions, and did some laundry.  We depart today (Sunday) for Grand Portage and from there over to Isle Royal to see if we hear any wolves howling from our anchorage.  It may be a while before we have access to the internet, watch us on Spot if you're wondering…

 

Paul

Grand Marais Harbor. 

Travel with Albion - Friday - July 4

Our original plan was to travel 50 miles today to Grand Marais.  Grand Marais is a destination and has limited slips available for transient boaters.  So with the busy 4^th weekend we opted to sleep in and sail 20 miles up to Taconite Harbor.  Taconite is a rock that contains iron ore. They crush up the taconite rocks and remove the iron ore.  Silver Bay was built around a taconite processing plant which is still in operation.  The plant at Taconite  harbor is now closed, but the name remains.  Despite the plants the waters are very clear. 

 

Off the port today were red rock cliffs, rolling green hills, and cliff side retreats built on the rocks.  The shore line remains quite inhospitable with the rocky cliffs.  This section must be a post card with the winter ice. 

 

Following wind today and a few small waves.  We sailed wing to wing but the winds were light at best.  Superior is a deep lake, over 500 feet depth was consistently on our depth gauge.  A laid back sunny 4^th on the North Shore. 

 

Our harbor is very small, 2 other boat here and we have not seen their owners.  We are swinging on a mooring ball surrounded by rocky shores.  We blew up our kayak and explored shore, nothing here but wild flowers.  Enjoying the moments. 

Travel with Albion - Thursday 7/3/2008

A beautiful sunrise over our quant little harbor this morning.  A loss of words to describe the warm, calm, soothing harbor. The charter captains were quite busy preparing their vessels for the days catch.  The seas were calm (and Shirley just loved that!) as we traveled not far offshore on up to Silver Bay. The port side shore was beautiful. Rocky cliffs with old light houses, cabins, campgrounds, and an occasional house built on the cliffs with large windows to view mother Superior.  None of these dwellings had access to Superior, to rugged and rocky.  The hazard of the day was small floating logs, no idea where these all came from.

 

The highlight of the day, we were invited to the home of Kathryn Samuel whose son David and his wife Jill (they are from the Pittsburgh area) were visiting.  David grew up in Silver Bay and what a coincidence they happened to be here. Thanks to our friend Charlie for setting this up.  We had a very nice meal and a wonderful time. David filled us in on life as a child in Silver bay.  The household challenge was attempting to keep a bear out of the bird feeder (no luck so far).  Thanks to the Samuels for their hospitality. So we are not finding this NW shore inhospitable at all, .quite the contrary.

Reflections from Dry Land Near Pittsburgh, July 3, 2008

Some words to the Albion log from Tom!! We thank him!!

 

*****

For a completely novice sailor this was an amazing opportunity; and I do thank Paul for that opportunity.  Beyond the few words I'll share here, this time has made a significant impression on me and came at a time of transition for me both personally and professionally.  For that I thank Paul, Albion and Lake Superior. 

 

First a couple of additions/corrections to the existing bog entries.  On the 24^th we witnessed two young men skinny dipping in the lake, needless to say they did not stay long in the 39 degree water.  The lesson here for this first time sailor – "no man over board."  In Ontonagon, we got supplies at a store that was a full service grocery store, hardware store and liquor store all in one place.  You would think that it would be divided into separate stores, but no the plumbing aisle was next to the bakery aisle, etc.  Roxy's was named for a dog and a huge oil painting of the dog hung behind the bar she must have been some dog!  Black River was beyond words: so much to see and a very special feel as we walked to the Falls through a forest of HUGE trees.   Tom's Burned out Café was THE night spot on Madeline Island.  Paul's comment, it was a real island place…tarps where the roof was 'burned out.'  After dinner and an evening with Shirley, I can see why she is his favorite crew member!

 

I learned a lot on this my first sailing experience: for example the proper way to attach a line to the cleat in the deck (although under pressure I failed to get it exactly right 100% of the time).  Interesting conversations with Paul expanded my view.  Sailing on a large lake in a relatively small boat is a different view.  As you read this blog, you will get that sense.  WE are lucky to be part of the journey of Paul and Albion.  

Travel with Albion - Wednesday 7/2/2008

We departed Duluth (technically the twin city of Superior, Wisconsin) and headed NE for Knife River.  Not much here at Knife River other then the marina, but I wouldn't call it inhospitable.  Tom flew off this morning and took the glassy seas with him. We had 15-20 knot winds out of the North as we beat our way NE close hauled into the weather.  A bit intimidating for Shirley's first day out of the season. There is a noticeable difference in the air temperatures based on where the winds are coming from. Today was a multilayer, North wind, waves splashing on the deck, heeled over kind of day. We sailed with a reefed Main and Genoa.

 

The waters around Duluth are very dark colored.  Not sure why, could it be iron ore?  As we traveled the waters cleared.  Once we began getting closer to shore (about 2 miles off) the breeze warmed and it is quite warm at the dock.

Travel with Albion - Monday 6/30/2008

We hiked along a beautiful road to town for breakfast.  There were tall pines, inlets with flowering Lilly pads, willow trees, and an abundance of wildflowers along our picture perfect route. 

 

The early morning air was crisp and cool but a blue sky and sunshine quickly warmed things up.  We motored on a sea of perfect glass all the way into the Superior/Duluth inner harbor. Another Bald Eagle flew over. Tom is our biologist so I doubt we will notice these eagles once he leaves. Duluth is second to NYC in shipping. There are towering grain silos about.  But we have not seen many ships.

 

We will have a crew change here in Duluth. Shirley my all time favorite crew member will be coming aboard for our journey up the western shore to Thunder Bay.  They call this western shore inhospitable to the recreational boater. Just what that means I guess we are about to find out.  No ice cream perhaps! 

 

It has been a pleasure having Tom on board. There is so much I enjoy about these journeys and one of them is having various crew on board.  Every person adds a great deal and leaves a bit behind when they leave. I welcome all of you to throw off your bowlines and come join us someday.    Paul..

Travel with Albion - Sunday 6/29/2008

Bouncy night on the hook.  Early morning we had the idea of pulling up anchor and tying up at an old dock in the harbor.  The plan was to tie up at the dock a few hours and  hike to the western shore of Sand Island to see the old light house.  We ran aground approaching the docks and quickly abandoned that plan. So we sailed by the western shore of Sand Island and had a lakeside view of the Light house.

 

We sailed SW with a good wind out of North.  Early afternoon the winds shifted to the SW and then died. So we motored on into Port Wing. A sleepy safe refuge up the river with rickety old docks, fishing boats, and the normal small harbor welcoming crew to take our lines on arrival.  Only one small sailboat in this harbor.  So we are using our advantage (small) with being about to tuck in such a place for the night. We hope this ability to tuck in small places helps us on the North Shore where rumor has it being 150 miles between ports. 

 

Lake temperatures were more noticeable today.  We went from multiple layers and a stocking cap to shorts and a T shirt (and still hot) at the dock…

Travel with Albion - Saturday 6/28/2008

We had a nice breakfast in La Pointe before a late start around 9:30.  Seems everyone working on the Island of Madeline is from Bulgaria.  The winds came as we negotiated our way around the Apostles and Tom had a chance to develop some sea legs.  It was nice to sail a short time without the Honda running. 

 

Sunshine and a Bald Eagle flew over as we beat our way into the cool wind out of the west.    The apostles are beautiful!  Contrasting colors, blue sky, white puffy clouds, very green Islands covered with trees, Red rocky shores, and the Superior waters.  Take a deep breath and feel grateful for just being here. 

 

Lots of boats in this section, it is a destination. Sailboats Inc. has a charter company on the mainland.

 

We had a few challenges and periods of confusion today. The Auto helm stopped working and back winded the sails.  We are missing a block for the main sail reef set up and  had a bit of confusion getting in the reef without it.  The Auto helm started working again as mysteriously as it stopped. So don't know, hope this is not a sign of problems to come.  Not a necessity, but sure makes the journey more relaxing! 

 

We are on the hook tonight in the  East Bay of Sand Island.  Tom made some really good salmon cakes which we grilled with potatoes and veggies.  The food, drinks, scenery, remoteness, and fresh air is wonderful out here!  Good night…Paul..

Travel with Albion - Friday 6/27/2008

No sailing, the windless weather persists.  Superior is putting on a good act for us. Calm, smooth, and very innocent.  The lake is cover with some sort of yellow particles.  Looks like a form of vegetation. We first thought it was seedlings from trees. We have attempted to no avail to catch some of it in our bucket. No one we have asked seems to know what this mystery substance is?

 

We arrived at Madeline Island (one of 22) on the Apostles mid afternoon. The Frenchmen who discovered these Apostles couldn't count. He thought there were 12.  We are now in Wisconsin, central time zone. 

 

Hopefully we will find a wireless connection and can send out a few logs.   Superior wins the most bugs award!   The battle of the bugs is keeping us limber.

 

We need some winds!!! For sailing and bugs.  Paul…

Travel with Albion - Thursday 6/26/2008

Calm seas, blue skies, sunshine, loons, and the green Porcupine Mountains off the port side as we cruised west along the Southern Shore.  We were lone travelers except for an Indian Fishing boat out netting some fish.  The local fishermen do not look too kindly at these Indians that are permitted to drag nets the size of football fields.  We know to stay away from the nets and away from the fishing discussion. 

 

We made our way a short distance up the Black River and tied up for the night. Tom says this place gives him the goose bumps.  We have water falls, Bald Eagles, a Merganser with her 11 babies swam by.  The little ones are quite playful and scamper up their moms back for a safety and a free ride.  River otters swam by while we were grilling dinner. 

 

A good night from our own little Paradise…Paul..

Travel with Albion - Wednesday 6/25/2008

We departed the Keweenaw waterway, past the light house and out into Superior.  She sure looks like any other Great Lake. Just more remote (so the logs are going to be days apart and in bunches, if at all).  Slight warm breeze out of the South and the air temperature warmed up to the 70's. The rumors we kept hearing of air temp on board being equal to water temp (39*) are not true.  We cruised/motored with the southern shore to our port on calm glassy waters.  While 3 miles off shore we were visited by 100's of flies.  Can anyone explain how  how these insects fly that far from shore?  Or do they hatch on board??

 

Late afternoon the winds picked up and shifted to the Northeast, the temperature dropped fast. We went for a couple layers of fleece. The waves began to build and Superior started to give us a small show of her true character.  We safely arrived in to Ontonagon and walked to town for dinner at Roxy's.  A bit of a walk to town so Roxy drove us back to the Marina.  Great sleeping weather!  Paul

Travel with Albion - Tuesday 6/24/2008

 We are loosing tough with what day it is. Were sailing again!.     

 

We started our day by calling the lift bridge on channel 16. All small towns have their largest in the world. In this case it is Little Mac, the lift bridge, the biggest, heaviest, and mightiest lift bridge in the whole world the locals tell us. Their town is indeed a special place.   All towns are!  We call, the bridge acknowledges.   The siren/horn blows which can be heard for miles, the cars all stop, the massive structure rises to tower above us, and little ole Albion with two smiling gray sailors cruise on under. Ahhhhhhhhhh were off!!   Now what a way to begin our Mother Superior Cruise.  We departed early afternoon and made our way the 7 miles out the Keweenaw Water way and tied up on a seawall.  We're in an area called the "Lilly Pond" just down from the light house for the night. Jimmy Buffet, grilled pork chops, mid 80's, warm sunshine, cool breeze off the lake, life is good!  Couple of those funny looking Indian fishing boats west of our bow. No Indians though.  The short shake down cruise went well. Off we go tomorrow heading South on the Big Lake.  Watch the sunset (10:45 up here!), attacked by swarms of mosquito's, dive in the cabin, close all ports and sleep ohh so well…Paul..

Travel with Albion - Tuesday 6/24/2008

Tom has arrived.  We are provisioned up and have completed all projects required for departure. A small problem with our anchor light that needs fixed, but we'll deal with that later. We intend to have a short day today traveling out the Keweenaw Waterway 10 miles to the entrance to Mother Superior.  Locals tell us there is a protected inlet called Lilly's pond on our starboard side where we can tie up for the night. So this is our plan.  Paul.

 

 

PS. I have heard the "show Albion on a map" link didn't work. Yet when I called Shirley last night and she tried it again it did work. So I don't know what is up with that.  Here goes…Try Try again…

 

 

https://share.findmespot.com/shared/gogl.jsp?glId=1VDS5998TqfRpt9dYnO4PYkrfyESqhWkf

 

 

Password Albion

Travel with Albion - Monday 6/23/2008

We are launched and sitting cozy at slip # 23 at the Houghton County Marina.  The massive lift bridge we will depart under is in full view.  A few more boat projects, load up on provisions, pick up Tom at the airport this afternoon.  A total of 3 flights a day come in they tell me. 

 

Foggy this morning, this could present a challenge for us in departing early on long sailing days.  Let's hope it burns off fast.

 

My slip neighbor asked last night if I had a snowmobile suit. Ahhh, no.  Well he says with a big smile under his sailing hat, you're going to wish you had one out there on Mother Superior…Ohh well I tell him!

 

You can see our current location at  https://share.findmespot.com/shared/gogl.jsp?glId=1VDS5998TqfRpt9dYnO4PYkrfyESqhWkf

 

The password is Albion. Note the A must be caps (and only the A).  This should be updated at least daily and as we travel, so bookmark this link if you care to follow on goggle maps.

 

Paul

Travel with Albion - Monday

Monday  September 24th

 

We departed the Grand Bend beaches at 7:30AM amongst clear skies and calm seas.  However there was a breeze in the air that told something was coming.  A small craft warning had been issued, 25 knot winds, waves to 2 meters by evening.  But we were sailing SW along the southern shore and could hug the coast and minimize the fetch.  A southern blow was perfect.  We reefed the main on departure; an act of preparedness, rather then necessity.  One of those many things we have learned..

 

What a wonderful day to end the trip.  We skipped along at near 6 knots close hauled, T-shirt and shorts, sunny and the mid 80's, right into the St Clair River.  As we completed the full circle and sped down the St Clair at record speeds of 9.5 knots (currents!) the bands were playing in my head.  Canada to the East, the USA to the west, as we passed under the bridge span.  It has been a wonderful season.  I am thankful and grateful for it.  Our minds now move on to Superior, the fifth and last Great Lake; much work and planning to do over the winter.  If you care to join us, let me know.  I enjoy showing sailing to new comers. 

 

This concludes travels with Albion for 2007.  You may hear from Bill, I'll see if he can write an addendum.  Enjoy your winter, till next season…

 

Capt Paul

SV Albion

Port Huron, MI  

 

 

Travel with Albion - Sunday

Sunday  September 23rd

 

Ahhh, the water is so much better then the interstates.  We departed Goderich around 8.  Clear Blue skies, calm seas, warm and sunny.  Motored sailed on a southern heading and arrived in Grand Bend around 2PM.  The Southern Shore of Lake Huron is in Sight. The circumnavigation is near.  We left solo and to the West, we return solo out of the East. 

 

I love having crew on board and would never want a life style of sailing alone.  But I enjoy the balance of sailing solo as well.  When solo so many more people approach you at the dock.  "Hello there, really nice boat (Albion is frequently admired), where are you headed, where have you been, where are you going" So the conversation starts.  We small boaters admire the big boats.  I could take my bike on that boat; it sure would be nice to have that Furling Main sail.  The interesting thing I find is the big Sail boaters admire and respect us small boaters just as much.  "Wow, you take that little boat out there, you must be a good sailor" There is a beautiful simplicity to a small sailboat.  Big boats, lots of stuff, lots of problems, lots of things to fix and maintain.  Big boaters are continually fixing and maintaining their stuff.  They look on at Albions simplicity with envy.  Frequently they will come up and tell me not about their big boat, but about that little boat they used to have.  This simplicity is not something I am sure I am willing to let go of. Sailing seems to neutralize class distinction.  I see so many parallels to sailing and life. But that is a whole another story and not for here! 

 

I am now a day away from completing Lake Huron, our 4^th Great Lake.  The emotions are mixed, very happy to have completed the lake and return to my family, sad to be returning to the 4 lanes.

 

Travel with Albion - Saturday

Saturday September 22^nd

 

Bill got off ok.  Wow, what a feeling to be driving on four lanes, malls, traffic, everything is moving so fast.   The sailboat next to us, "Inspiration Lady" is quite the gem, words can't describe her.  She has to be worth more then a million and the folk on board are so very nice.  When little Albion (you would have so see a picture to understand the difference) came in Thursday night the Captain came running out to take our dock lines and welcome us ashore.  It turns out this couple have literally built this boat themselves (She is 46 feet long) in their back yard the last 22 years.  When I say built, I mean built.  They made the hull molds them selves, laid all the fiber for the hull etc. etc.  They built it.  Think of the best of BMW cars and having a car that looks far better that someone built them selves in their backyard.   They are leaving this spring to circumnavigate the globe, fascinating people.  As soon as I got back tonight he stopped over and invited me to breakfast tomorrow.  I would love to go but need to get sailing south.  We talked about their plans; they will take 5 or 6 years.  This boat has everything and is near perfection. 

 

There is a large Salt mine in Goderich that is very interesting.  It is the size of a city underground and goes down under Lake Huron for miles.  Bill and I walked over Friday night to the silos and checked out a ship that was being loaded.  You don't see much on top, just silos and things for loading ships, trains, and trucks with salt.  

 

I ask all the Canadians about their government health care, and they all seem to like it.  They can't believe that someone in the USA can be sick and not get care.  The Canadians are so much more aware of the USA, our politics, government etc.  We Americans know little about the Canadians.  They seem a bit more laid back, but that could be only the harbor town attitude.  They are much more environmentally aware. 

 

PS.  This email is brought to you by the down of Goderich. Sent from the town square.  It is amazing how available wireless is becoming. 

Travel with Albion - Friday

Friday  September 21th

 

The beach towns along the Canadian Shore of Lake Huron are beautiful.  There are large sandy beaches for miles, the water is clear blue reminding you of the Caribbean with a quaintness similar to Vermont.  They call everything up here Bluewater such and such. 

 

We are back on shore today.  Three things going on.  First yesterdays winds caused the sands to shift and there are warnings of harbor entrance closings in the direction we are heading.  Second there is another small craft warning issued and things are really to pick up, they are  talking 30 knot winds and 3 meter waves.  So not a good day to alter course if we cannot enter a harbor.  Third, Bill needs to get back to work on Monday.  So we rented a car and I am driving Bill tomorrow (Saturday) down to the Niagara area to meet up with Becky (his wife) who is driving up to get him.  So the earliest I will be back on the lake is Sunday.  However, at this point the long range weather report doesn't look favorable.  We are two days out of Port Huron.  So close, yet so far away…

 

 

Travel with Albion - Thursday

Thursday  September 20th

 

The moon is now half in the southern sky.  We departed before sunrise on a very clear star filled morning with Venus looming large in the Eastern sky.  Spotlight in hand, Bill on the bow as we negotiated our way around the seawalls and out of the darkness into the open sea.  We watched to the East as the lights of Port Elgin became smaller.  The sky was full orange across the horizon as the sun came up bringing the hope of a warm day.  How different then our every layer arrival into Port Elgin.

 

Seas not smooth, but calm, winds out of the NNE as we headed south.  Nice being out again, never been held back 6 out of 10 days…

 

Lots of Wind Mills along the Eastern Canadian shore.  The waters have that Caribbean look.  The winds picked up and we sailed wing to wing into Goderich, love that point of sail. We were flying at 6-7 knots.   Goderich is the largest town on all of Lake Huron, but it doesn't seem very big.  You get two sun sets in one night here.  First at the beach, then you run up the hill behind and see it all again.  

 

There was a surge in the channel coming in.  Our rudder bumped the Sandy bottom…A day or two to Port Huron.  As sailing goes, it depends.  Then end of the season is near…

Travel with Albion - Wednesday

Wednesday September 19th

 

That sliver of moon in the Southern Sky is growing, getting near half now.  The temperatures are warm, clear skies, and Venus is so Bright in the SE Sky before sunrise.   The weather pattern has stalled and we are still holding in Port Huron.  Getting to know this town.  There are lots of restaurants and we have managed to find a new one every night.  We walked a couple hours yesterday to a new end of town.  We also discovered a Tim Hortons and they have the best pastries for breakfast. 

 

If you don't have patience your not a sailor.  You absolutely cannot be driven by schedules, but rather you must enjoy the moments presented to you and wait for that weather window to present itself.  Lots of time to read, reflect, and absorb the locality where you find yourself.  Adventure is not always being in control.

 

The weather looks like it will break tomorrow.  We are planning a long day, leaving in the darkness.  I much prefer to leave a known harbor in the dark than arrive at a new unknown harbor in the dark. 

Travel with Albion - Tuesday

Tuesday  September 18th

 

We are holding over in Port Elgin, our second day.  Strong southerlies, waves up to 2 meters.  Not conditions Albion can handle.  Port Elgin is not Tobermory but not a bad place.  There are lots of cottages and B&B's a beach town destination for Canadians in the summer. time.  Town is a mile away and has everything we could want (well, almost!).   After a few days like this I find myself looking more fondly at larger boats.  But with a larger boat, I would miss the opportunity of experiencing these towns.

 

We hiked along the lake 4 or 5 miles yesterday to the next town, South Hampton.   Tempting to start moving as the weather here yesterday was warm and sunny.  But the winds are blowing this morning, and we must stay in…

 

Four sailing days out of Port Huron, so close, yet so far to finishing Huron...

Travels of Albion - Sunday

Sunday  September 16th

 

We had a quiet night and departed our rusty dock wearing gloves, stocking cap, and all available layers.  Cool air, sunny skies and the hope of a warm day.  Winds out of the west, and the feeling of winter on our faces as we beat out of the choppy harbor directly into the wind.  With each splash of the waves you watch carefully hoping this spray is not for you. 

 

After working our way around the shoals and shallow bottom for 4 miles we made a big left turn heading South.   The waves were around 3 feet on our beam but the wind shifted to the southwest giving us a double reef close hauled bouncy ride.  It was one of those days where you need to maneuver around the boat on all fours or you get thrown someplace.  We never removed the layers today, the winds just keep blowing cold air.  In a small vessel you feel the raw conditions at times a bit too much for comfort.  We were in control but feeling the full effects of the conditions. 

 

So coming into Port this afternoon felt great, very pretty harbor, nice hot shower to warm us up.  The waters are clear blue like the Caribbean, large sandy beach.    Port Elgin is noted by National Geographic as having the best sunsets in the nation.  It was in full display tonight and indeed the best I have ever seen.  This huge ball of sun on the horizon over the blue water as we just watched it slowly move down and disappear.   .  The moon is back, a small sliver in the Southern Sky.

 

Four sailing days to Port Huron, completing the lake is in sight.  And with the cooler air, it tis the tail of the season..

Travels of Albion - Saturday

Saturday  September 15th

 

We snuck out of Tobermory around 10 this morning.  Strong 25 knot Northerlies and a small craft warning in effect.  But we only had to beat around the North Shore of Bruce peninsula before our run south to Stokes Bay.  Interesting that two of our neighbor sailors left within 15 minutes of us.  We all felt the lull and knew the opportunity.  They were much larger vessels then little Albion.  We had a wonderful run and arrived safely in Stokes bay around 4 PM.  So we were good Seamen.  But there is a very fine line between good Seamanship and stupidity.  A ship is always safest in the harbor.

 

A cold one this morning (9* C), but we had periods of warm sunshine that felt wonderful.  How the weather has changed since that summer day Mark and I went swimming.  We really need to get off Superior early next year.

 

Three days we had to experience the rhythms and patterns of Tolbermory.  Craigies restaurant at the end of the Harbor has been there for 32 years.  The ferry coming and going with a loud blow of the horn.  Rated a top dive location, numerous dive excursions coming and going out the harbor to visit one of the 30+ wrecks preserved in the deep cold waters.  The library in the old log cabin. 

 

It felt great to be back on the water sailing again..

 

Stokes bay is shallow, a few challenges getting in.  We are alone and tied up to a rusty old government dock.  We hiked a mile to the Tamarac Inn and had an enjoyable Grilled White fish dinner with quite the cast of local characters for entertainment.  We stayed on an extra hour or so talking, one guy was an Indian in from a local reservation. …

 

 

Travel with Albion - Friday

Friday  September 14th

 

We are still holding in Tobermory,  tonight will be our 4^th night here.  The weather has shifted to the North but the waves at the buoy are 2 meters right now and expected to build to 3.  We like them 1 or less and not in the direction we are headed. 

 

We do begin to feel at this point that we could end the season right here in Tobermory.  That did happen on Lake Erie the first year, the season ended in Leamington and we went back the next year to finish.  If that would happen this year I intend to take full advantage of it.  We would enjoy and explore this area next summer and finish the Lake early next fall.  It only means we were meant to stay…

 

But there is still time, and the weather does always clear.  The outlook (beyond 24 hours) at the moment looks favorable…We are around 5 sailing days out of Port Huron.

Travel with Albion - Wednesday

Wednesday September 12th

 

We are still hanging out in Tobermory.  Not a bad place to be.  We hitched a ride on the tour boat yesterday over to Flower Pot Island and went on a gorgeous hike around the Island.  It is called Flower Pot because it has large rock structures on the rocky shore that look like big flower pots.  The Islands and waters around here are beautiful! 

 

The storm from the North has passed and all is calm.  But now there is a big blow expected from the South with waves at 2 meters by noon.  We will be traveling south and there are reefs along the shore for the next 45 miles with no easy, safe place to tuck in.  So we will take no chances with the weather on the next leg, we are holding in Tobermory again today (tonight is our 3^rd night here).  Last year on Ontario we held over in Hamilton for 5 nights, that was Shirley's week of sailing, Hamilton.  If we were to pick a town to be held over, Tobermory would be a good choice.  Library, grocery store, numerous restaurants, hiking trails.  What else could we want!…

Travel with Albion - Tuesday

Tuesday September 11th

 

The sun never came up again this morning, clouded in, rain, but very calm in Rattlesnake Bay.  A very peaceful place.   The weather report on the VHF Radio was another story.  Gale winds up to 40 knots, waves to 3 meters this afternoon.  Seemed unbelievable, with this calm we were experiencing before the storm.  Our barometer was dropping fast, another almost sure sign of a storm.    The seas were expected to build to 1 meter out of the North by noon and we were sailing south.  So we headed out around 7:15 on a run to beat the weather into Tobermory.  We made it in around 11 (only 20NM). A very wet day with the rain, but the weather  was not a factor. 

 

Tobermory is a nice little town.  There are lots of reefs and wrecks around here.  Tours are run in glass bottom boats and lots of dive excursions that go out  to  the reefs and wrecks.  We had a clear path in, but need to be very careful negotiating the reefs when we leave.  I don't understand the geology.  But we are currently at latitude 45 degrees north.  They say these reefs here were formed when this land mass was at latitude 10 degrees South (that is south of the equator). Someone has to explain this.  The water depths are also interesting. It is over 400 feet deep in places right off shore from our harbor.  With the weather as it is, I imagine we will be able to explore more around Tobermory tomorrow. 

 

We were taking the force of the weather on the beam at our dock..  The dock was flying up from the waves, yanking our lines, then Albion would bounce up then we all came slamming down.  After sitting on board an hour we opted to move and tied up between two docks with the bow to the weather. We are now secure and comfortable to ride out the storm.  If our well protected harbor is this rough, I imagine the reefs and seas are intense.  The old seamen didn't have the weather reports, such good charts, and electronics. Thus, the wrecks! 

 

 

Travel with Albion - Monday

Monday September 10th

 

It is with some sadness we left Killarney this morning.  Killarney was our Northern Hub. A frontier type town, a town to remember, a town I want to come back to some winter, a town I wonder how certain thing will work them selves out in future years.  

 

  Everything closes up in Killarney right after the Thanksgiving (the first Monday in October).  I have mixed emotions on the last leg of Great Lakes trips.  Sad, that things are winding down and the Northern sailing season is coming to a close.  I love the North, my heart is here.   Yet rather exciting, fulfilled, and happy to be near the completion of another Great Lake.  I imagine next year as we sail Superior, all of this will be more so..

 

We are back in Rattlesnake harbor tonight.  Enjoying the solitude, the harbor is quiet, it is ours alone.  Bill and I cooked up some steaks on the grill.

 

The sun never came up this morning, a cloudy stocking cap kind of day.  Not enough wind to sail, the seas were on the bean but only a foot or so.  A motor day.

 

Rain again tonight, better now then during the day…

 

Goodnight…

Addendum

Addendum from Shirley…

 

My only comment, she is no wimp!!!  Really enjoyed having her along…

 

What an amazing trip around the Georgian Bay.  The sailing Gods were definitely with us for this one.  A total of 11 days onboard, 5 nights at harbors, 5 nights at anchorages, and never missing a day waiting for bad weather to clear.  This is unheard of.  Last year I spent more time on land than I did on the water.  We had winds from the right direction at the right time and no winds for our crossing across the southern part of the bay when we were in open waters.  And today, there are gale force wind warnings.  If we had been a day behind, we would be sitting out this weather at Rattlesnake Anchorage.  Truth be told, I am sometimes a wimp when it comes to sailing.  I love the water but strong winds, big waves and the boat heeling over make me nervous.  I get more comfortable through time.  Doubt I will ever reach the calmness that Paul has about it, but I gain more confidence with each trip.  This trip was a definite confidence booster. 

 

Paul, a.k.a. Columbus, feels right at home sailing.  Nothing fazes him.  He has learned a lot about sailing from when we first started in the Florida Keys.  It amazes me how busy he constantly is; charting, miscellaneous boat projects, and now his Albion journal.  And now I turn things over to Bill.  We will be picking him up at the Sudbury airport on Sunday.  Hopefully the winds will shift and they will have Northerlies for the rest of their Lake Huron journey.  Bill has sailed with Paul every year.  I think he has the distinction of being on the last trip of the season every year.  And now, time to catch up on the US Open for me.

Thursday September 6, 2007

The weather on the Great Lakes picks up in the fall. The water is warm and the air temperature cooler. Winds (predicted one meter or less) and waves from the South today. We are traveling north, so it is a go day. The nice thing about the Southerlies is they bring warm weather. Huron has even stronger southerlies today with waves up to two meters. We would not travel South in these conditions. Next week Bill and I will be traveling South and will need these winds to shift North and lighten up.

A beautiful sunrise this morning while we had breakfast on the deck. Take a deep breath and feel so fortunate to be here. We sailed wing to wing most of the day. That is a very relaxing and soothing point of sail. Little to no heeling, and the winds are pushing you along. We sailed across the channel between the North Channel and Georgian Bay. The seas at this intersection point were very confused. Five footers from the South East (Georgian Bay) and four footers from the South West (North Channel). This caused considerable yawing as we sailed across. We had a preventer on the Main to give the boom some stability. Shirley was reading. But these are conditions one has to be on board a few days and become accustomed too.

The furling line needs replaced again (bad line from West Marine!), the Auto helm stopped working yesterday (loose wiring connection, fixed), and today part of the block on the Mainsheet fell apart (I am hoping to fix this one before departing again). Always projects on sailboats.

We are now back in Killarney (two days early) and have completed Georgian Bay. So we plan on exploring the local area, do a few boat projects, and stock up on provisions for the last leg of this years Great Lakes venture. Bill arrives on Sunday. We will be out of touch for a few days after departing Monday morning.

Expect an addendum to the Log from Shirley in the next few days….

Paul..

Wednesday September 5, 2007

It rained all night last night, which is nice for sleeping. We waited for it to clear before departing around 9. Soon after leaving Wingfield Bay the waves picked up and we had 6 footers rolling up under the stern. These rolling waves are not as steep as I am used to on the Great lakes. I imagine it is because of the depth here (300-400 feet). Reminds me of waves in the ocean. For Shirley it was a little intimidating, looking up at the waves and not knowing if they are going to lift up the stern and roll under the boat or come crashing down and swamp us. But after a few hours with no crashing, everyone relaxes and enjoys the ride.

So much for the weather report, they said waves less then a meter today. Not desirable conditions to turn back directly into the weather and no other ports to sneak into. So we opted to keep going as more favorable conditions were predicted and the winds were light. We surfed into our planned destination, rattlesnake harbor at Fitzwilliam Island.

We traveled 5 hours today and didn’t see one other boat.

Tuesday September 4, 2007

We had dinner at a local Inn (the Lions Head) and stayed till 10 for some of the US open Tennis last night. They had the best fresh White Fish for dinner. Everything was closed in Lions Head so we left around 11 this morning after picking up some provisions. A short day, 16 NM up to our anchorage at Wingfield. Some heavy seas today, up to 5 foot waves on the beam, big waves for a small boat. Winds out of the East as we traveled North. Very cloudy, but no rain. The rain on the Great Lakes seems to come at night, seldom have I had rain while sailing. We are anchored right next to an old large wooden ship wreck. Wonder what his story was, sure seems like a well protected harbor to us.

On arriving at our Anchorage we blew up our inflatable Kayak and paddled over to explore an old light house on shore. There was a couple staying at the light house for the week. They have a program where volunteers can sign up and stay for a week…Quite the view from the top…Tomorrow we are dong a crossing and a sailor at the docks this morning told Shirley it is called the gap and is very treacherous waters. I find these stories from others are always far worse then the reality of our experience. But, he did get Shirley nervous about the Gap. There is considerable fetch (all of Lake Huron) in this narrow channel. So you just don’t go if there are strong westerlies. So we will have a keen ear and watch for the weather tomorrow morning..

Monday September 3, 2007

It was so clear last night, unbelievable the number of stars we could see from our anchorage. We need a book on the stars. The waves calmed overnight. But not before Shirley was up a number of times attempting to find the banging and clanging caused by the rocking and rolling. Been warm the last couple of nights, not even down to the dew point.

The Canadian Coast Guard keeps issuing warnings on the VHF Radio about two wrecked sailboats against the rocks and sunk. They are up North in the Rock and shoal area we navigated through (not to worry Mom, we are past these points). We were more attentive to location, terrain, depth, heading, then ever before up there. Not a good place for a beginner to practice. Absolutely beautiful, but exhausting conditions. Our swing keel was nice, just pulled it up which makes our draft change from 5.5 feet to 2 feet. Hard Deep keels are much better though when you’re out in the heavy seas. All boats are a series of trade offs.

The day turned out to be quite delightful for sailing. It was absolutely beautiful out there. Clear water (we can easily see down 20+ feet at the docks), full Genoa, reefed main, splashing along between 5 and 6 knots. Loved it…

The next 3 days we will be traveling through remote areas and anchoring out at night. So don’t expect to hear from us until we arrive back at Killarney.

You ask. Do I like the Isolation? Is it intimidating at all? I really just enjoy journey and enjoy whatever comes. Intimidated, no not a bit. Perhaps I should have a small dose of that sometimes, but it doesn’t seem to come.

Paul..

Today’s log is brought to you by some unknown source we have picked up on a picnic table along the path to town. We thank them.

Sunday September 2, 2007

We awoke this morning around 4AM to the sounds of waves slapping against the Hull, and the clanging of sailing vessels rigging. For me, exhilarating sounds, for Shirley, sounds to get the nerves riled.

Sailing on the Great Lakes is all about wind speed, direction, and fetch. The winds most of the day were 15 knots on the beam (side of the boat). The fetch (distance the wind travels over water before reaching us) was only a few miles. So the waves were not significant (two feet) and the sailing pleasant. Mid day we had to cross Owen Sound. This increased the fetch to 15 miles, the winds to 20 knots and we felt the force of wind and waves as soon as we came around the point. A wet afternoon, lots of bouncing, how different from yesterday. We get ourselves into a certain rhythm with the winds and the waves continuously rolling in.

The last few hours of the day the wind became more intense (a small craft wind warning was issued) and we had to tack around the wind to get to our anchorage at White Cloud Island. White Cloud was recommended by a sailor that picked us up in his pickup truck this morning as we were hiking back from town with a tank of gas. Nice anchorage location but not ideal tonight. We are into the weather, not much protection, so we’re Rocking and Rolling. Our anchor is deep in the muck and we have a scope of 7 to 1, so we’ll sleep well tight…

Paul..

Saturday September 1, 2007

We departed amongst the mist at the start of our 41 NM day, including a 20 mile crossing of SE Georgian Bay. Skies clear, variable to no winds, a few waves to rock us a bit. A good day to read, enjoy the sites, and take a nap up on deck in the warm sunshine as the water splashes by. There are advantages to all types of weather. We are now on the Southern shore of Georgian Bay, half way through our circumnavigation of the Bay. Down South here the water is deeper (hit 360 Ft on our depth gauge) and the shore is lined with the Blue Mountains and their ski runs. They call Georgian Bay the 6^th Great Lake. It is not as large as Ontario, but a close 6^th.

We landed in the town of Meaford, a laid back kind of place with friendly neighbors. We arrived around 3 and no fuel is available till 9AM tomorrow.

There is something about being out in open water that gives one this feeling which I’ll call fulfillment. Looking off in all directions a great distance and seeing only water fading and dropping into the distant Blue Sky. The same feeling achieved on a mountain peak, but unimpeded by anything.

It was a relaxing day, free of looking for rocks and shoals, a day to just glide along. A warm one, shorts and T-shirts…Dinner in town at the Leaky Canoe…

Friday August 31st

As we were traveling out the channel this morning we went around a corner and were surprised to be face to face with a huge Ship (at least a foot ball field long!). We had about 40 feet of water so I guess it must have been the route to Parry Sound, the largest Town near by. I awoke Shirley and she stuck her head out the hatch above the birth, otherwise she would have always thought it was a joke of mine.

The winds continued out of the North today and we sailed, motored, and surfed on a run around the rock gardens and into Pentanguishene Municipal Marina. Try calling in that name to the harbor master requesting a slip. In town we found the locals can’t even say it. We are in Pentang!. It was a look at the GPS day as we negotiated shoals, rocks and Islands.

Lake Huron is 3-4 feet low which causes some interesting problems at the marinas. This has been caused by the dredging of the St Clair River for shipping. The deeper river bed caused further erosion and the draining of Huron. The only solution they tell us is to put locks on the St Clair. Not likely to happen. A few channels in the upper areas are now impossible to get into.

Thursday August 30th

As we went out the channel this morning we were passed by a number of power boats carrying workers to the cottages for the day. They were loading up at the docks, generators, shingles, and all sorts of supplies for their labors. A friendly bunch that all waved as they zipped by us. We were in fleece, many of the workers T-shirts. Temperature around 50..

More rock gardens and narrow channels today. A small craft warning was in effect, but it was following seas and the fetch was only a few miles. The wind was out to the North, which is a change. The North winds are bringing a cooler night, 7* c tonight, a close up the ports and hatches night. Good sleeping weather.

We arrived at Killbear early today, around 1PM. The next two days are long ones as we go South and then do a crossing to the Southern Shore. Full services tonight, a time to regroup. Charge the batteries, fill up the water tank, enjoy a hot shower, cook a nice meal on board and enjoy dinner on deck with the warm weather, blue skies, and a wonderful waterfront view over looking the channel. People pay millions for condos with this view.

The plan for tomorrow. Have some breakfast and coffee and depart around 7AM. Shirley plans on staying in her berth while I sail the first few hours.

Wednesday August 29

We pulled up the hook this morning and departed amongst the foggy mist for Pointe Au Baril Station. It will be nice to stay at a dock tonight. Not enough power left to run the coffee grinder, no showers since Killarney, our fresh water tank is getting low, and we could use a few provisions. Next year on Superior we will need to carry more water. Last nights charting was the most tedious I have ever done. Rather then 30,000 Islands, it could be called 100,000 rocks. Negotiating our way around quite scenic but hazardous rock gardens was the theme of our morning. I have never seen anything like this. They tell me it is like the Greek Islands. It amazes me that we traveled over 6 hours and saw one small fishing boat from a local cottage.

We made our way out to the Open Bay, sailed southward and then in the 5 mile channel to the Station. The channel had numerous quant cottages and large homes built upon the rocks. Point Au Baril Station is back a road off highway 69 and the cottage owners use it for boat access to their cottages. We saw a few Real Estate listings for these Island homes; 1.5 million seems the going price. I would love to winter over in one of those places. A thought for when I am 80.

Turns out there is not much at the station. No power, no water, no shower! We were able to hike out to the Highway and make a few calls, and get some Ice Cream. I did find a plug at the light house and ground some coffee beans though.. So life is good….

I imagine about now a few of you may be wondering what happened to Albion, no emails. Well, at this point who knows when we will find access?

Paul..

Tuesday August 28

Up North the mosquitoes come out at dusk. Last night the water was calm and we could see hundreds of fish coming to the top to snack on the bugs. Must be good fishing up here.

We a woke this morning to the sound of loons. It is so colorful in the morning. Green Pine Trees, various colors of orange reflections on the water from sunrise, deep blue sky, iron ore rocks, and white puffy clouds. And think of it, there is no admission charge to get into Beaver Stone Bay.

A three layer stocking cap morning. We departed at 8AM with total calm and made our way through the various passage ways towards Britt (42NM). We entered Georgian Bay and were immediately faced with a strong south east blow. We sailed with the main and genoa reefed. The weather intensified as we continued to beat as close hauled as possible attempting to stay on course. We were soaked from the waves, discovered two new boat leaks (below the shrouds), and continued to be swept off course a few miles. Britt would have required multiple tacks and a long long wet day. So, oh well, not going to Britt today. We altered course and are now tucked in a little Picturesque Cove surrounded by small quant vacation cabins build on top of rock. In view out the hatch is an old light house. No road access here, everyone comes by boat. We strung the radio antenna up the shroud and we have a Radio station. Life is Good.

Monday Night August 27

Here we sit on the Hook in Beaver Stone Bay, floating about in the seaweed with the loons. Quiet, only a couple of other boats anchored in the distance. No cell phone service, but we are able to pick up a radio station out of Sudbury, so not totally isolated. Were in about 6 feet of water on the Lee side of a Rocky Island Shore, winds are mild and shifting. So were swinging about, with the radio playing...About to Grill some Chicken and play some backgammon…

Beautiful day, calm with sunshine. A lay on the bow day for Shirley.

We put on a new furling line this morning (Mark, we have it working right now!), replaced the main halyard shackle (Pat I found those channel locks!!), along with a few other minor maintenance chores. We departed right after lunch, sailed past George Island (one of 30,000 they tell us), and into Collins Channel (10 miles long). These channels are narrow natural passage ways between the Islands. Full of rock formations. I would rate the scenery a 10.

Crystal clear water where the rock boulders are in full view down15 feet, which makes you a little unsettled at times. Nothing much up here, my kind of place…

Paul..

Monday August 27

We are back in Killarney and off again on what hopes to be the final leg of the Great Lake Huron venture. . The moon welcomed us over the horizon last night, it is full again. Not as large and orange, but noticeable. We don’t plan these trips around full moons, but the Gods are with us. The stars are all out, and life is good in North Country. Yeh, I love it up here! Albion is crystal clean! At first I thought it was the pristine environment, clean air and water. Then we found out from the locals that it has been pouring rain up here for two days. How nice, everything is washed clean and we’re experiencing the clear blue skies. The air is brisk, shorts seem to cool, and Shirley and I are both wearing long sleeves. I packed a stocking cap and gloves, hoping that insures warmer weather. . The stores have signs about reduced hours and closed for the season dates (some on Sept 4^th). The peak has past up North and summer is winding down.

So the log for now continues, thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I’ll answer the questions over time (and I need them!!).

We are off to explore by circumnavigating Georgian Bay. No small feet, Shirley keeps saying, how we are going to do this, it is almost as large as Lake Ontario? Yeh, almost, but not quite. Shirley will be on board for two weeks and we hope to loop right back to the car in Killarney. A good friend Bill, who has been on every lake with Albion, will join us in Killarney in two weeks. Shirley will drive back to Pittsburgh and then Bill and I will sail south down the Eastern Shore of Lake Huron to where it all started in June, Port Huron. This entire trip will be in Canadian waters, except for the last 15 minutes as we sail down the St Clair River and into the Black at Port Huron.

Why the Great Lakes? Well, they are the largest bodies of water the closest to home and were just lurking on my map to be explored. Don’t read or hear much about sailing on the great lakes. They are an undiscovered resource in many ways. They are very diverse and can be a challenge when the weather kicks up. A wilderness in my own back yard. Also, this is a training run for me. I sort of figure if we can do the Great Lakes in such a small vessel. Well then, we can do bigger waters in a larger vessel. I have and continue to learn a great deal. Enjoying the journey. After finishing Superior I could start all over again, hate to finish the lakes. But there is a whole world out there isn’t there..

These logs will be posted to: Travelwithalbion.blogspot.com

So if you would rather use a bog feed rather then email let me know and I’ll remove you from the list..

Fair winds..Paul..

Epilogue

First a message from Kimberly… (And we thank you!!)

One week on the boat is a challenge in many ways. You just get your "sea legs" and remember how to do things the right way at the right time and it's over!! On the other hand, after one week on the boat, your brain has trouble adjusting back to land, too !! --- just close your eyes in the shower and the rocking begins all over again! So, what I'm trying to say in summary is that a week is a long visit on a boat and NOT NEARLY ENOUGH. Paul spends every day teaching us so much about sailing, tying, navigating, using the technology and being meticulous in planning... then we're gone and a new crew arrives to be trained. I don't know how he does it, but it is a wonderful experience. I just hope we can remember SOME of it when we return

Albion is tucked away in Killarney channel and we are home again in Allison Park. The journey will continue on Georgian Bay around August 27^th . Shirley (my absolute favorite crew person!!) will be aboard for a couple weeks. The season starts winding down up north mid August and many places close on Labor Day. So Shirley is hoping for some warm weather. After Georgian Bay, Bill will come up and we hope to complete the Eastern Shore of Lake Huron back to Port Huron where it all started in June…

The log was an interesting experience for me; I hope you enjoyed some of it. I thank you encouragers. At least perhaps you now have a small view of what is happening when we go off to the Great, Great Lakes. There is a certain very strong lure to those of us that are called to explore. I hope you have seen some of it. I have not yet decided if I will continue this log. Time will tell…

Paul

On land in Allison Park, PA…USA

2007

August 11 - Saturday

Every Sailor should come and spend some time in the North Channel. Islands, coves, large harbors, Black Bear, Eagles, Fresh Fish, crystal clear water, Loons, Green Hills, Golden rock cliffs. A meca for sailing. A place to come back too. A place you could spend a whole summer and not see near all of it.

Another calm day today as we motored East around the Islands into Georgian Bay and into the very narrow and well protected Killarney Channel. Killarney hosts the Killarney Mountain Lodge.

August 10 - Friday

Smooth Seas, total calm today. What a difference the weather can make in the same waters. Calmness brings a relaxed state, a time to read. It also brings bugs, which bring the fish to the top, which brings the loons for the fish. The binoculars are used more, and there is time to get to know each other better.

The North Channel is beautiful and there are lots of boaters up here to enjoy it. The sailing and vessels remind me of a Caribbean port. We are in Little Current and they have cruise net tomorrow on VHF just like we were in Georgetown.

A few of the passages up here are so narrow that you hear securite on the radio as boats enter the passage. The channel out of Little Current is about 100 yards wide, between two huge bodies of water, the North channel and Georgian Bay. It is more like a big current. We have to watch our departure tomorrow, the currents can be 6 knots and we can’t power up that until it changes. There is also a swing bridge across the channel that opens on the hour. So not the normal get up and go…

A Hot one today, lots of sun, we had our tarp cover up over the mast.

August 9 – Thursday

We bid our new friends goodbye this morning and headed out towards the Benjamin’s. The furling line is chafed, we tried reversing it en route, but that didn’t help much. I hope it doesn’t break before I get a chance to replace it. We motored out amongst the rocks to the North Channel and set sail on a Port Tack close to the wind. We were beating and slamming waves so we altered our course more south so more of the windward hull was to the weather. Tacking back and forth to the Benjamins would make for a long slamming day. Oh well, we checked our charts for Ports South and found we were headed for Gore Bay, so here we are. Interesting, we must be destined to be here. We had a conversation before departure about which of the two ports to go too. Lots of waves splashing today, enjoyable sail. Pat had a wet sandwich for lunch…

The marina here in Gore Bay is huge, more like the marina’s in the USA Great Lake Cities. I didn’t expect that. The Eastern part of the North Channel has more traffic and is a boating destination. The water at the docks is crystal clear. Gore Bay has every thing a boater could want. Marine store, grocery store where you can push the carts back to the dock…

August 8 – Wednesday

Sunrise brought clouds this morning. The woman dock manager came running out to throw off the lines as each of us boaters were departing (maybe 8 transients in last night). Her run was not a short distance either. She told us on departure that we have a “Cute Little Boat”. No question, we win the smallest vessel award.

We sailed close to the winds with Full sails most of the day. The navigation was intricate with numerous Islands and Shoals as we worked our way into the Whaleback area. . We are now in the Canadian Shield (This means bedrock!). Kimberly’s word is gorgeous. Rocks, iron ore substrate layers that look orange, very green trees, and crystal clear water. We attempted to capture the moments to take home via camera, but you have to be here. .

This was a Monarch day! Kimberly says they hang out until the winds start blowing in their direction. So perhaps that explains why we see so many certain days.

Chester our neighbor has a great deal of experience on Lake Superior and was very much an encourager that Albion is an ok vessel for the journey. 150 miles between ports is a long way though. But there are numerous small protected harbors we can sneak into.

There is something about coming in to a harbor from sea that causes those on shore to welcome you and take you in like nothing else I have experienced. We had one of those evenings. Glenda the harbor masters wife took Pat and Kimberly 15K to get provisions. They invited us up to use their yacht club where we all cooked a wonderful meal (9 of us). AND it turns out Chester can really play the guitar (along with another man from our harbor). They played, Yolanda was at times the melody and we all sang till 11:30. That is really late for me.

Jupiter is huge tonight, with Antares red tints below. The stars over Albion are amazing! The milky way is huge!! Pat keeps saying, just think, we are part of that! Goodnight..Fair winds tomorrow..

August 7 – Tuesday

A good night’s sleep with loons calling during the night. Pat says you have to be Loonie calling at that time of the night.

We were unable to locate a pigtail, but the marina Staff went out of their way. They went to a local hardware, and made us one. We were so very a happy, the people up here are so accommodating. The winds clocked 180 degrees, last night they were out of the west, this morning the East. Unusual to switch like that over night. As we sail the winds many times funnel down between the varying Islands and terrain causing gusts. Perhaps this has something to do with it.

We had an exhilarating day! Love the moments! We left Blind River and sailed South crossing the North Channel to Meldrum Bay. We sailed on a Beam Reach with 3 foot waves and winds on the beam. It felt great skipping along at 6 knots,. Hearing only the splashing water, no motor.

We have a Garmin GPS with Blue Charts and Richardson charts to find our way. We saw lots of Monarchs today. Just how do such small floating butterflies find their way to a 20 mile square area in Mexico…

Today is Pats birthday, we had a nice dinner at an Inn on the Island. We all noticed the moon last night shining in the Hatch an Ports, Kimberley says it was a perfect crescent. Thousands of stars tonight, it has cleared.

August 6 – Monday

We had a relaxed breakfast in town this morning and headed out along the Northern Coast of the North Channel. Once again there was a small craft warning in effect, but the winds were from the west, minimal fetch since we departed the western shore, and the waves today were to be 1 meter or less. So we decided it was a go day. We sailed wing to wing this morning and on a Port tack run this afternoon. Strong following seas and surfing waves that were at times 4 feet. Enjoyable trip most of the day, a couple points of confusion when the Whisper Pole fell out. The North Channel seems named improperly, it is 20 miles wide.

We passed numerous Islands and Shoals and the morning clouds turned to hot sunshine this afternoon. On arriving into Blind River a big blow came up that made for an interesting landing at the Gas Dock. The dock hand said the winds were 30 knots, but don’t thing they were quiet that strong. We walked around Blind River and had dinner up over the river bridge near the highway. Interesting old houses, lots of those Northern flowers and an atmosphere that seems to make us feel like we have gone back in time 40 years in this Port…

The small crisis of the evening is that we discovered on connecting to shore power that we left the pigtail in Bruce Mines. Hmmm, there is a marine store here, hoping they have one tomorrow.

Goodnight, as I look out over the North Channel, nice breeze, and distant Islands awaiting us tomorrow. Feels a bit like heaven to me! Don’t be surprised if you don’t hear from us for a few days…Moving on to the Islands…

August 5 – Sunday

We retuned the mast today, it was leaning to one side and one of the spreaders was angled. There is a small problem with the Jib roller furler. We spent some time trying to figure that out (the line comes out at the wrong angle and is chafing). We were not able to fix it but I understand what needs done now. Did the laundry, got some groceries. Ready for another week…

Our neighbor seems to be a real sea salt. She must be in her 70’s, is from Wales and speaks with a thick accent. They have sailed a great deal and she told me, no problem doing Superior with Albion. So many little places to tuck in with your 2 foot keel. She thinks we are better off then those with larger boats. So another data point on Lake Superior…

The teens seem to mature here younger then the states. The dock hands are all teens and they are very responsible and helpful. Our copper mine tour guide was a teen, we saw her working a second job tonight in the restaurant where we had dinner.

Pat and Kimberly arrived safely and Mark has departed. I’ll miss Mark, he is a fellow engineering nerd. Pat, Kimberly, and I go way back. We’ll have a good week together.

August 4 – Saturday

We are legal once again, sitting at the dock in Bruce Mines, Canada. We awoke in our little cove this morning to total calm surrounded by mist. Got rather brisk last night. The sunrise was spectacular; I’ll try and send a picture. Words and pictures just don’t capture it though.

We will be doing a crew change in Bruce Mines. Pat and Kimberly are driving in tomorrow. Mark will drive their car to the Sudbury Airport and fly home…

Mark has agreed to write his departing addendum to the log. We had a very enjoyable time, as always.

Mark’s Addendum

Captain Paul professes not be much of a writer; I claim even less aptitude in that regard, but to help share the load of log writing on my last day on the lake, here we go.

Our dock is at the end of aptly-named Mark Street, in the little town of Bruce Mines. There are a couple of decent eateries, one grocery store, one library, and two mining museums, one of which we toured today, taking us into an old copper mine. According to our enthusiastic tour guide, the museum’s average attendance per day is 8 visitors, which may be why the other museum was closed today, its sign saying “Open Mon & Tues 10:00-4:30”.

So… I have a fair amount of time during this transition day to write down some thoughts about my one week on Albion with Paul. As I have with my other legs on Lakes Erie & Ontario I enjoyed the beautiful scenery, the whole sailing/traveling experience, and the company of my friend Cap’n Paul. Since I have not been keeping a log, I thought I’d just record some random thoughts and memories that stick in my mind.

Top Six memories of the Alpena to Bruce Mines leg of the Huron circumnavigation Odyssey

1. Adrenaline rush on Friday while retreating from the North Channel crossing, catching Paul in my lap during one wicked heel, and getting my feet wet hanging on to a lifeline on Albion’s leeward side during another dramatic heel while trying to get the Genny sail put away properly during a big gust.
2. Paul’s ineffective rain dance leaving Mackinac Island. The dried horse manure had to wait a while longer to depart.
3. The refreshing mid-cruise swim in Lake Huron, miles away from any land, on an uncharacteristically hot Monday.
4. Anchoring out in Jocko Bay and dining on a gourmet dinner of canned chicken-of-the-sea, canned veggies, and rice-a-roni (all in one pan) at the lakeside restaurant Chez Paul.
5. Being an illegal alien for 16 hours (I now feel a real bond and emotional connection with the Cuban boat people)
6. Paul’s love of life & learning and discussing all aspects of our world and society. When I’m sailing with him, no lack of information ever gets in the way of our coming up with a theory to explain how things work or why things are the way they are (or how we think they ought to be.).

To close, I’ll impart some dubiously beneficial information that can be viewed as a partial crew responsibility checklist. Perhaps it will be useful to his upcoming crews to know that they are responsible for:

1. Remembering to bring up the swing keel when coming into port, during a run, or when no sails are flying.
2. Retrieving Paul’s hat if it blows overboard. You have three minutes. You will be graded.
3. On even days, you are responsible for remembering the location of the Captain’s sunglasses. (hint: they are often on the bridge of his nose or around his neck).
4. Port departure checklist:
1. All fenders present and accounted for (not tied to a dock piling)
2. Dock lines tidied and stowed
3. Spider webs tied off properly

August 3 – Friday

Sitting here on the hook watching the trees move back and forth out the hatch. Interesting day today, it started with a beautiful sunrise coming up over the water. We hiked to town and had breakfast with a few locals outside a coffee shop. There was a small craft advisory in effect for this afternoon in the North Channel (where we were headed). It was calm and we only had 21 miles to sail, much of it in the narrow Detour Channel. Se we figured if the intensity picked up we would duck in behind one of the numerous small Islands. I was about to write about the state of total relaxation achieved by sailing, but today changed all of that. We started sailing with a reefed main and full Genoa soon we decided it was time to reduce the Genoa. We kept reducing the Genoa until it was all the way in. The gusts were extreme and we were at times suddenly heeling to the stanchion bases with only a reefed main. Bringing in the flogging main was mass confusion with the 25 knot winds. We got it in, no harm done. Then we sailed only with a partial Genoa. We were tossed about as were our belonging below. Clear blue sky, but rain gear for the waves. The intensity continued to grow and we decided on Plan B and tucked behind a small Island on a Lee shore. So here we sit in this nice little cove, back to the relaxing, and just finished a good meal. Life is good. The winds are still howling, so goes it on the Great Lakes. Hopefully tomorrow we can make the 7 mile North Channel crossing. The winds are from the west, and there is considerable fetch from the west.. Technically we are illegal. We are anchored in Canada and have not checked in.

Your questions. The swing keel is either up or down, no adjusting. We have a line in the cockpit that lets it down or pulls it up. Our draft with the fixed keel is 2 feet; swing keel makes the draft 5 feet. Albion is light, displacement around 2500 pounds.

A whisper pole is used on a run to hold out the Genoa, as in the log yesterday. Yes, we have a boom vang on the main. We have one reef point on the main, and the Genoa can be furled partly. We need more reef points on the main, today was one of those days…

How do I like writing this log?. Well it is not as much of a pain as I thought it might be. What rules do we have on board? None really, more a matter of communicating consequences. The biggest cause of death with sailing, falling over board and becoming detached from the boat. So think about keeping attached at all times with 3 points or you could fall off…An interesting note, peeing over board is a top cause of falling overboard. Used to do that, no more.

I met a guy this morning that just came from Lake Superior. We need to study that Lake before next year. Sounds like a long distance between ports…

Lots of Islands today, monarchs flying south. Amazing those little guys can find their way to Mexico…Wow…They catch the up drafts off the lake. Want to go see them in Mexico some winter.

It you don’t like heeling today wasn’t your day. We got all that manure washed off..Needed it. Plus, we were just way too relaxed…

Tonight we have mystery noises about on the boat. The winds and waves cause rattles and shakes…Not too worry, sure hope the hook holds out there….Good night!!

Thursday August 2, 2007

We departed this morning on a heading of 80 degrees (East) with Mackinak Island fading too our backs. Good winds as we sailed on a run wing to wing with the Whisper pole in the Genoa. Seas were 2-3 feet and moving faster then us (6 Knots) so we surfed at times up to 7.5 knots, a very fun point of sail. Around 11 the sky blackened, the wind gusty, and there was thunder in the distance. So we brought in the main and sailed with the Genoa alone. The storm never really arrived and I was doing a rain dance (I really was!) because we needed some rain to wash off the horse manure flakes left from the Mackinak towering horse dock. We motor sailed the rest of the way to Detour Village.

Do we have an Auto helm? Yes we do and use it most of the time, works well! How to we handle Helm responsibility. Mark and I switch off every hour on the hour. Most of the route planning I do at home and is on the laptop. We change things though because of new interests (Like going to Mackinak) or weather. . Ports are chosen by what we have heard, what the books say, and distance between ports. Where do we find wireless? Sometimes we don’t, you have to go hunting. Restaurants, some marina’s, libraries, coffee shops, hotel lobbies.

Dinner at the local bar where we met a power boat couple that had just arrived from the North Channel. They had some weather today and are not sure about leaving tomorrow. There are many noises in the marina tonight from the winds in the sailboat rigs. The calmness has passed and we need to keep a keen eye on the conditions tomorrow. Could be a stay in Detour Village Day.

This marina is full of large, expensive sailboats. 90% transient, every is returning or heading to the North Channel, a popular destination and where we are headed.

It is cooling down tonight, we are wearing jackets. There is a church near by and we hear the hourly gong as the wind shakes the rigging and the boat rocks side to side .

Beautiful sunrise this morning! ..A new friend at the docks told us there is a certain table outside at a certain bar in town that he was able to get wireless So today’s log is brought to you by “The Mainsail Deckhand saloon” Off we are to Canada…

Wednesday August 1, 2007

Did I miss a day somewhere, this is Wednesday isn’t it? This finds us at Mackinac Island, sitting at a dock that lurks 8 feet about us. We have devised piling steps and rope loops to monkey our way to the top. Horse drawn wagons carrying supplies pass above us on the dock. There was no room in the State Marina. Just returned from a mountain bike ride around the Island, pretty place…

The Indians were up early this morning at Hammond Bay and were departing in the netting boats when I was on the deck around 6AM. They were a friendly happy crew, big smiles and waves. Have a good catch I told em!! Bet they would give us one if we were around tonight. These things come with desolation.

We sailed an hour or so but again the weather calmed. This weather has been unusually mild this trip. I plan these trips with a weather day in the schedule after each 3 days of sailing. Last fall we sat in Hamilton Ontario for 5 days. We got to know the locals on a first name basis and had a few favorite hangouts. So this calm is very unusual. A good day to lie up on the bow and listen to the water flow by. Shirley loves it up there in the calm, her favorite place...

More navigation today. We sailed NW around Forty Mile Point, into the South Channel of the Mackinaw Straights with the Mackinac Bridge in view more then 20 miles away. Feels good to be returning from the East, Shirley and I sailed in here from the West in 2005. Past Bois Blanc Island, around the end of Round Island into the Harbor at Mackinac Island. The land of no cars, tourists, fudge, flowers, horse drawn carriages, bikes, and the Grand Hotel...The biggest hazard today, speed ferries flying about from the Mainland making huge waves.

The motor died this morning a few times with a bunch of smoke pillaring about. My nerves were a bit on edge as we had motor problems last year and stories to tell about that!! Well it was running to rich, hmmmm, what could that be, …Ahhh ha…I left the choke pulled out a bit… Pushed it in…and no more trouble. Whew….

It quiets down here in Mackinac in the evening, nice not having the mob of tourists. Not quite desolation, but it has it’s own charm about it…..Goodnight…

Tuesday July 31, 2007

Yippieeeee!!! We were able to get both sails out this morning. Cool north wind, had the light pile on. .. Then the winds died, and the lake turned to a mirror, calmer then I have experienced it. It got very hot for up north and we stopped for a swim before motored on into Hammond Bay. Nothing happening here, Hammond is the most desolate marina I have ever seen, 5 boats, the attendant is rather lonely and keeps coming down to hang out with us. A couple cross Michigan bikers stopped by looking for a coke. He told them the nearest coke was 14 miles in Cheboygan. We gave them a few from our ice chest, they were very pleased. Grilled out tonight, pork chops, stove top, and corn. Always tastes better on the back of a boat. And the view is fabulous.

Do we carry a spinnaker? When do we put the motor on? No spinnaker. No room for one and the number of days we have a good strong down wind sail is maybe 1 and 10. We have a Whisper pool and use that down wind. When do we turn the motor on? Well, we are not a sailing purest. Rather an Explorer who enjoys sailing. The question is when do we bring out the sails. If the flag on the backstay flies 15 minutes or so, we bring out the sails. We cut the engine when we can maintain at least 5 knots with the sails alone. We motor barepole often, motor sail often, and sail with out the engine less then a third of the time.

I was talking to a Port Huron to Mackinac Racer last night. He carried the flag till the last twenty miles, never got to asking him just what carrying the flag means. Anyhow a friend of his was sailing a Beneteau 41 (like a mac truck where Albion would be a volkswagon!) a few weeks back. The seas were 8-10 and he was coming in a channel that was into the weather. The channel was 7 feet deep and his keel 6 feet. The seas going up and down in the channel slammed this boat into the bottom, and pushed the keel right up through the bottom of the boat. ..Never thought about the depth of a channel going way down from heavy seas like that. But just what was he doing out in 10 foot seas anyhow?

How do I feel? Great, wonderful, that has to be obvious!! I tend to forget everything when I enter this world, I effortlessly seize each moment. I feel at home.

Should be good sleeping, cooling off, very peaceful, the benefit of being desolute. The sun is setting over these two rather odd looking boats the dock master tells us they are Indian netting boats. The swallows are dive bombing insects all around the boat and dock..The water is crystal clear. Goodnight, nothing like sleeping on a rocking boat…

Monday July 30, 2007

Thanks to all for the overwhelming responses. I’ll try with time to integrate the answers. If I forget, ask again! As the responses fade, the log will fade. So goes it…

Tonight finds us in Presque Isle. A large harbor, rare on the Great Lakes. This harbor is very much like Presque Isle PA but a bit smaller. Presque Isle is French and means, “all most an Island”. Look at a map, you’ll get the idea.

We departed today around 8:30AM after hiking up to the coffee shop in town.. We opted for the long conservative route out of Thunder Bay rather then dodging rocks and small Islands. I was awake at 5AM ready to go. Calm seas, clear skies, light to no winds, loons diving, jumping fish, clear water, a few large ships, a number of sail boats heading south after the Port Huron to Mackinaw race. Relax, take it all in with a few deep breaths, read magazines, look out over the endless water to the East. Talk about what is this or that on the distant shore.

Our route is planed the night before and loaded in the GPS, travel is relaxed unless the winds and seas are up. Yes, they do come up. Average speed around 5.5 knots, average day 35 NM, very very long day 55 NM . Fuel consumed today, 2.75 gallons and that is with no sailing! Do we get bored, no, love it! It could be a lifestyle rather then a vacation for me.

A few net stakes today, other then that, routine. Michigan has more light houses then any other state. Presque Isle has two, an old one built in 1840 and a new one built in 1870. The new one is the tallest in the Great Lakes, 109 feet. We arrived around 3, fueled up, looked for town (there is none!), and picked up bikes at the store near by. We rode out, explored, and climbed to the top of the light houses…Spiral staircases are not a new invention.

Dinner at a restaurant in view from the dock. And they have wireless. Mark tells me they are sunfish and trout swimming under us as we sit on top of this aquarium. …That huge orange moon is coming up in the East and it will greet me tomorrow at sunrise in the west. .No jacket required, it is warm and casual. My kind of place. Goodnight Dear Friends.

Sunday July 29, 2007

We have arrived safely in Alpena, an uneventful trip where we attempted to solve a few problems of the world. Albion was well taken care of but covered with hundreds of spiders and their feces, we destroyed their villages with a good washing. The marina folk were to replace a mast head anchor bulb. A rather minor job but they told me on the phone they had to rewire things. Well, we have an anchor light but they seem to not understand the difference in a masthead light and anchor light. We lost the masthead light in the process, and I doubt now this rewiring is what we needed. A story and project for later. Ohhh well we have an anchor light and have no plans to be running at night..

We had a nice dinner in an old restaurant that matches the sailors rule I met last trip. IF the restaurant is not in a 100 year old building, it just won’t be very good. This one was good! That rule has worked so far, I wonder where that sailor is about now. We are stocked with food for a few days and will be traveling to Presque Isle tomorrow…

The Winds are East tonight at 10 knots, not bad as we are heading North tomorrow. The seas are calm. The fishermen had some good catches today. We saw a large Steelhead, and walleye about to be filleted. I think Mark said they were 2 feet…

A large huge orange moon came up in the East soon after sunset. The neighbor guy with long gray hair under his cap said, wow, ain’t it just wonderful! Yea, it really is…..Nice to be back on board. I like harbors, boats, and boat people.

I’ll try and send a few pictures once in a while, just to give you, well, a picture of things. Our challenge will be finding a place to connect and send. So expect days of nothing and then bursts of email…

Saturday 7/28/2007

I set a goal in 2003 to circumnavigate all 5 Great lakes. This is not a small feat. Erie is 871 miles, Michigan 1638, Ontario 712, Huron 3827, and Superior (which is very appropriately named) is 2726. We cut a few corners and don’t actually travel this exact distance. There is so much to say about these lakes.

So far we have completed Erie, Michigan and Ontario. The lakes are indeed Great and I am very happy to be on this journey. I can leave the dock and be in the wide open spaces in the matter of minutes. We experience small towns, quaint harbors, big ships, fishermen, and travel for weeks in a world where it is rare to see a Wal*mart or fast food restaurant.

As I have traveled the lakes on a number of occasion’s people have rather strongly encouraged me to write a log of our journeys. I have never been particularly motivated to write a log. I have written logs in the past and rarely refer back to them. I have read logs written by others and find then rather boring with details of uninteresting things. I do enjoy reading book after book of those that have sailed around the world. But these books are well written and edited. I am not much of a writer.

So I am starting this log as a test to see how it goes. You are chosen either because you are one of the encouragers, have traveled with me, or I just think you may be interested. I need from you an occasional comment or question. The frequency of the comments and questions will determine the future life of the log.

Our vessel is Albion, she is a Precision 23 sailboat. For the techies of the group. LOA – 23.5 Feet, Beam 8.6, Displacement 2600 pounds, swing keel goes from 1.5 to 5 Feet, mast height around 34 feet from the water line. As we go along these things will perhaps develop more meaning. My philosophy with boats is to keep it as simple as possible. I am here to enjoy the journey not work on the boat. I want to feel the lakes without much cushioning. Albion is on the light side for the Great Lakes, we need to keep a keen eye on the weather. And as you shall see, things are always happening.

Albion currently lies in Alpena Michigan on the Western shore of Lake Huron. We launched this year in Port Huron and I sailed solo the 150 miles or so north to Alpena. The plan is to return back to Port Huron from the East by the end of September. Alpena is a well protected harbor with numerous reefs and hazards in the bay. I was very cautious coming in. There is a marine sanctuary and a number of dive excursions that go out of Alpena to explore the 10 or so major wrecks in Thunder Bay. When I came in it all looked so peaceful, calm, and innocent, but we knew there were rocks lurking about and this same lake can really kick up with a few winds. Charts, weather reports, and GPS units make life a bit more relaxing.

Today was a packing day. Tomorrow I meet a good friend Mark at the Pittsburgh Airport. We have a one way rental to Alpena. Albion will be happy to see us, I know it!!!