Monday, August 11, 2008

Travel with Albion - A message from Mark - 8/11

Crewman Mark's supplement to Captain Paul's blog - Monday, Aug. 11

 

As we wait for Paul's next crew member Bill to arrive here in Sault Ste.Marie, MI for the last leg of Paul's Great Lakes circumnavigation, the weather is beautiful; much like it was for almost the entire length of my part of the voyage.  I just came out of a tour of a maritime museum (right next to the marina, inside the "small" 550' mothballed freighter Valley Camp) where among many other interesting displays, they have exhibits of the Edmund Fitzgerald, including the remains of the ship's two lifeboats.  A very sobering reminder of what Superior is capable of when she acts up.  The battered lifeboats washed up on shore near where we anchored out two nights ago. 

 

Lake Superior from Thunder Bay to Whitefish Bay was amazingly remote, postcard picturesque, and a wonderful experience.  I thank Paul for the opportunity to be a small part of his great adventure.  I think I'm Paul's "Canadian specialist", having sailed over 90% of my time with him in Canadian waters.  Having sailed with Paul on every lake except Lake Michigan, I would definitely rate Superior as my favorite.   As you might guess, Paul is already thinking hard about what he and Albion might do next.  Based on his musings, could it be sailing to Mexico, perhaps?

 

Paul's daily blog has described the places we've been and the overall sailing experience very well, so I'll not repeat that. I suppose I'll reminisce about some of the memories and highlights of this trip in my guest blog today. 

 

Three biggest surprises:

 

1. Seeing a fishing vessel materialize out of the fog 400 feet ahead of us offshore from Otter Bay, coming at us about 200 feet off port, when I'd bet there wasn't another vessel within 20 miles of us.  Since he had radar, I'm sure he knew where we were, but his abrupt appearance sure surprised me!

 

2. Walking up on 150# to 200#  black bear while hiking to the first nation mission in Goulais Bay.  He took off running when he saw me.

 

3. The near heart attack caused when I set the chart book on top of the air horn in the cabin.  Very loud.

 

Three biggest disappointments (minor ones, more than mitigated by the items in my "cool experiences":

 

1. Trolling various lures behind Albion for more than 200 miles without one lake trout, steelhead, or salmon to show for it.

2. Not seeing a moose

3. There is no number three, unless you count the mosquitoes

 

Coolest Experiences

1. Making good on my assertion before the trip that I could catch us a fish dinner, and then having the best $42 pike dinner of my life (the cost of a non-resident fishing license) on board Albion

2. Very close encounters with wildlife, including caribou and snowshoe hares in the Slate Islands, whitetail deer at Silver Islet, and of course my bear (see surprise #2)

3. Going to sleep to the tom-toms and chants from a First Nation family reunion campfire about 10 yds. from Albion

4. Everything about White River, with its falls, its suspension bridge and its pristine beauty (only place I swam)

5. Locking through the Soo Locks

6. Great weather, and even better company.

 

 

I wish Paul and Bill continued fair weather, and following seas as they sail on.